BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN 
COURT  IN  1798 


JOURNAL  OF 

THOMAS  BOYLSTON   ADAMS 

SECRETARY  TO  THE  UNITED   STATES  LEGATION  AT  BERLIN 


EDITED   FROM  THE  ORIGINAL  MANUSCRIPT 

IN  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

By  VICTOR  HUGO  PALTSITS 

KEEPER  OF  MANUSCRIPTS 


NJEW  YORK 

PUBLIC   LIBRARY 

1916 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN 
COURT  IN   1798 


JOURNAL  OF 
THOMAS   BOYLSTON   ADAMS 

SECRETARY  TO   THE   UNITED   STATES   LEGATION  AT   BERLIN 


EDITED    FROM   THE   ORIGINAL  MANUSCRIPT 

IN  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

By  victor  HUGO  PALTSITS 

KEEPER   OF   MANUSCRIPTS 


THE  NEW  YORK 

PUBLIC    LIBRARY 

1916 


Reprinted  January  1916 

FROM     THE 

5ULLETIN    OF    ThE    NeW    YoRK    PuBLIC    LIBRARY 

OF 

November  1915 


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FACSIMILE    PAGE    FROM   THE   ADAMS   JOURNAL 
(Original    size) 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN   COURT  IN    1798 

JOURNAL  OF  THOMAS   BOYLSTON   ADAMS 
SECRETARY  TO   THE  UNITED   STATES   LEGATION   AT   BERLIN 


Edited  from  the  Original  Manuscript  in  The  New  York  Public  Library 
By  Victor  Hugo  Paltsits,  Keeper  of  Manuscripts 


INTRODUCTION 

npHE  habit  of  keeping  a  daily  journal  or  diary  was  enjoined  upon 
■*■  his  children  by  John  Adams.  In  1778,  when  his  son  John  Quincy 
was  eleven  years  old  and  with  him  at  Passy,  in  the  environs  of  Paris, 
he  provided  him  with  a  blank  book  in  which  to  keep  "a.  diary  of  the 
Events"  that  happened  to  him,  of  the  objects  that  he  saw,  and  of  the 
persons  with  whom  he  conversed  from  day  to  day.^  These  three 
features  characterize  the  present  journal  of  Thomas  Boylston  Adams. 
It  is  now  printed  for  the  first  time  from  the  original  manuscript  in 
The  New  York  Public  Library.  The  Library  bought  it  in  July  of  this 
year  from  Dr.  Charles  R.  Eastman,  the  palaeontologist,  who  had  pur- 
chased it  from  an  acquaintance  whilst  a  student  at  Harvard  College. 
The  journal  is  written  in  a  small,  limp,  leather-bound  book,  measuring 
about  7  by  4^  inches,  and  fills  74  pages. 

President  John  Adams  and  Abigail  (Smith)  Adams  had  five 
children,  three  sons  and  two  daughters,  of  whom  Thomas  Boylston, 
born  at  Quincy,  Mass.,  on  September  15,  1772,  was  the  youngest.  He 
was  unmarried  when  he  accompanied  his  brother  John  Quincy  Adams, 
only  five  years  his  elder,  to  the  Prussian  court  at  Berlin.  On  May  16, 
1805,  he  married  Ann  Harod,  daughter  of  Joseph  and  Ann  Harod,  of 
Haverhill,  Mass.,  who  survived  him  many  years.  They  had  seven 
children,  four  sons  and  three  daughters.  One  of  his  sons  died  while 
lieutenant  of  artillery,  in  the  United  States  Army,  and  another  son 
died  in  the  navy  on  Perry's  Expedition,  in  1853. 

Thomas  Boylston  Adams  was  a  graduate  of  Harvard  in  the 
class  of   1790.     About  the  time  of  his  marriage  he  held  the  office   of 


Memoirs  of  John  Quincy  Adams,  I:   8. 

[3: 


4  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Representative  from  Quincy  in  the  legislature  of  Massachusetts;  from 
1809-1811,  he  was  Chief  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Massa- 
chusetts. He  died  on  March  12,  1832,  at  the  age  of  59  years  and  six 
months.^ 

On  June  1,  1797,  President  John  Adams  commissioned  his  son 
John  Quincy  Adams  as  "Minister  Plenipotentiary  for  the  United  States 
of  America  at  the  Court  of  His  Majesty  the  King  of  Prussia."  The 
son  was  then  at  The  Hague,  where  he  had  been  nearly  four  years, 
and  his  brother,  Thomas  Boylston,  had  just  returned  from  Paris  to 
accompany  him  to  London,  in  expectation  of  setting  out  from  there 
to  Lisbon,  whither  Washington  had  transferred  the  elder  Adams. ^  On 
June  30th,  the  brothers  left  The  Hague.  The  course  via  London  was 
chosen  because  John  Quincy  Adams  was  to  fulfil  a  matrimonial  engage- 
ment into  which  he  had  entered  with  Louisa  Catherine  Johnson,  the 
second  daughter  of  the  United  States  Minister  at  London,  Joshua  John- 
son, and  his  wife  Catherine.  This  marriage  took  place  in  the  church  of 
the  parish  of  All  Hallows  Barking,  on  July  26,  1797.^  But  on  his  arrival 
in  London,  John  Quincy  Adams  learned  that  another  change  of  destina- 
tion was  in  store  for  him.  Washington  had  closed  his  second  term  as 
president  on  March  4th,  and  John  Adams  had  taken  his  place  in  the 
chief  magistracy  of  the  Nation.  In  the  beginning  there  was  a  certain 
feeling  of  delicacy  with  respect  to  the  continuance  of  the  new  president's 
sons  in  the  diplomatic  service  and  it  is  evident  that  President  Adams 
consulted  Washington  for  his  advice.  Washington  gave  it  as  his 
"decided  opinion"'*  that  John  Quincy  Adams  was  "the  most  valuable 
public  character  we  have  abroad,  and  that  there  remains  no  doubt  in 
my  mind  that  he  will  prove  himself  to  be  the  ablest  of  our  diplomatic 
corps."  He  told  him  that  the  country  "would  sustain  a  loss"  if,  on 
account  of  an  "over  delicacy"  on  the  part  of  President  Adams,  the 
"talents  and  worth"  of  the  son  were  to  be  ignored. 

President  Adams  sent  in  the  nomination  of  his  son  on  May  20th. 
The  senate  tabled  the  nomination  and,  when  taken  up  again  three 
days  later,  debates  arose  and  it  was  again  tabled.  When  considered 
anew  a  week  later,  an  attempt  was  made  to  prevent  confirmation  on 
the  ground  that  it  was  "unnecessary  to  establish  a  permanent  Minister 
at  the  Court  of  Prussia."  That  motion  was  withdrawn  and  then  a 
motion  to  postpone  the  nomination  until  March  10,  1798,  was  defeated. 
Other  attempts  to  block  the  confirmation  failed.^ 


1  Adams,   A.    N.      Genealogical   History    of   Henry   Adams,    of   Braintree,    Mass.    (1898),    p.    407- 
423-424. 

2  Writings  of  J.  Q.  Adams,  ed.  by  Ford,  New  York,  1913,  vol.  II;  p.   177;  Memoirs,  I:   193,  195. 
^  Memoirs,  I:  199. 

*  Memoirs,  I:   193-194. 

<^  Memoirs,  I:   195-197,   199. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  5 

John  Adams  had  become  convinced  that  the  Nation  should  not 
be  deprived  of  the  services  of  his  sons  simply  because  he  was  for  the 
time  at  the  helm  of  the  government.  John  Quincy  Adams  had  shown 
particular  aversion  to  serving  under  his  father  and  had  made  his  senti- 
ments known  to  his  father  and  mother  in  a  "formal  declaration,"  yet 
had  been  persuaded  to  waive  his  opposition.  In  a  letter  to  his  mother, 
written  from  London,  on  July  29th,  he  said.  "I  have  broken  a  resolu- 
tion that  I  had  deliberately  formed,  and  that  I  still  think  was  right  and 
proper;  but  I  must  say  that  I  never  acted  more  reluctantly,  and  that 
the  tenure  by  which  I  am  hereafter  to  hold  an  office  is  of  such  a  nature 
as  will  take  from  me  all  the  satisfaction  which  I  have  enjoyed  hitherto 
in  considering  myself  as  a  public  servant.  It  has  indeed  totally  dis- 
concerted all  my  arrangements  taken  in  consequence  of  my  previous 
appointment  to  Lisbon,  and  will  be  very  inconvenient  to  me  personally, 
but  these  are  not  circumstances  of  the  sHghtest  objection.  On  the 
contrary,  they  have  been  among  the  most  powerful  motives  to  induce 
the  sacrifice  of  my  resolution,  and  the  determination  to  go  upon  the 
new  mission.  I  am  now  waiting  here  only  for  the  necessary  papers, 
which  I  expect  from  day  to  day."^  He  received  his  commission  and 
instructions  on  September  22,  by  General  Marshall.^  These  instructions 
were  to  guide  him  in  arranging  a  renewal  of  the  treaty  of  amity  and 
commerce  with  Prussia  "for  another  term  of  ten  years;"^  to  seek 
an  alteration  with  respect  to  attack  by  privateers  and  "the  principle  that 
free  ships  should  make  free  goods,"  a  principle  which  "the  United  States 
have  adopted  in  all  their  treaties  (except  that  with  Great  Britain), 
and  which  they  sincerely  desire  might  become  universal.""*  The  reason 
why  the  government  of  the  United  States  recommended  the  abandon- 
ing of  this  principle  was  the  attitude  of  the  belligerents  in  the  European 
war.  It  was  "found  that  neither  its  obligation  by  the  pretended  modern 
law  of  nations,  nor  the  solemn  stipulations  of  treaties,  secured  its 
observation."  On  July  17th,  the  secretary  of  state  wrote  John  Quincy 
Adams  with  regard  to  it  and  stated  that  it  had  been  "made  the  sport 
of  events";  that  "under  such  circumstances  it  appeared  to  the  President 
desirable  to  avoid  renewing  an  obligation  which  would  probably  be 
enforced  when  our  interest  should  require  its  dissolution,  and  be  con- 
tinued [sic  for  discontinued]  when  we  could  derive  some  advantage  from 
its  observance."^ 


1  Writings,  ed.  by  Ford,  vol.  II,  p.   192-193. 

2  Ibid,   216.     The  instructions  were  dated  July   15,   1797. 

^  The  treaty  concluded  on  September  10,  1785,  for  ten  years,  had  expired.  A  new  treaty  of  amity 
and   commerce   was   concluded   on   July    11,    1799,    and    ratified   by   President   Adams   on    February    19,    1800. 

*Ibid,   188-191;     Memoirs,   I:    197. 

5  Writings  of  J.  Q.  Adams,  ed.  by  Ford.  vol.  II,  p.  189.  A  third  duty  of  Adams  was  to  renew,  if 
possible,  the  treaty  which  Franklin  had  negotiated  with  Sweden,  in  1783,  for  fifteen  years. — Memoirs,  I:  199. 


5  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

The  Adams  party  embarked  from  Gravesend,  on  October  18th, 
and  anchored  at  Hamburg  at  noon  of  the  26th.  Two  days  later,  John 
Ouincy  Adams  was  apprised  that  Frederick  William  II,  to  whose  court 
he  was  accredited,  was  not  expected  to  live.-'  The  party  started  from 
Hamburg  on  November  2d.  They  had  gone  only  some  twenty-seven 
miles  to  Lauenburg,  when  the  post  chaise  in  which  the  younger  Adams 
travelled,  broke  down.  On  November  6th,  they  reached  Biizow  and 
found  "the  only  inn  had  only  one  vacant  apartment,"  so  "the  gentlemen 
.  .  .  took  their  lodgings  for  the  night  in  the  common  bar  room."  When 
they  arrived  at  the  gates  of  Berlin,  they  were  "questioned"  by  "a  dapper 
lieutenant,  who  did  not  know,  until  one  of  his  private  soldiers  explained 
to  him,  who  the  United  States  of  America  were."  Presently,  they  took 
up  quarters  at  the  Hotel  de  Russie,  otherwise  called  the  Soleil  d'Or.^ 
A  few  days  later,  on  the  morning  of  November  16th,  the  Prussian 
monarch  expired  at  Potsdam.  His  son,  Frederick  William  III,  and  the 
beautiful  Crown  Princess  Louise,  now  ascended  the  throne.  Adams 
was  left  without  diplomatic  standing,  yet,  through  the  good  offices  of 
the  Prussian  ministers  of  state,  he  was  given  an  audience  by  the  new 
king,  on  the  morning  of  December  5th.  On  July  5,  1798,  he  had  another 
private  audience  with  the  king,  when  he  delivered  his  new  credential 
letter.^ 

The  population  of  Berlin  in  the  year  of  the  accession  of  Frederick 
William  III  was  183, 000. '^  The  new  king  was  simple  and  conscientious 
in  the  fulfilment  of  his  obligations  as  monarch,  as  well  as  exemplary  in 
his  family  life.  But  he  was  lacking  in  the  more  important  administrative 
abilities,  so  that  corrupt  officials  sought  to  ensnare  him  as  they  had 
his  father.  He  scented  the  evil  thereof  and  tried  to  create  a  better 
standard  of  conscience  among  the  servants  of  the  state,  yet  with  little 
success.  The  nobility  looked  with  disdain  upon  the  burgher  class,  as 
though  they  had  been  created  merely  to  be  bantered  and  abused.  The 
arrogance  of  the  military  classes  had  become  almost  unbearable.  Young 
officers  in  particular,  misbehaved  themselves  in  pubHc,  insulting  the 
wives  and  daughters  of  the  citizens,  even  those  of  the  higher  official 
class.  The  citizens  were  dared  to  make  complaint  and  when  they 
brought  charges,  the  courts-martial  favored  the  military  offenders. 

Among  the  citizenry,  art,  science  and  intelligence  took  root,  whilst 
the  nobility  interested  themselves  more  and  more  in  landed  estates  or 
participated  in   the   vapidity  and  vacuity   of   court   life.     The   nobility 


I  Memoirs,  I:   200-201;    Writings,   II:   221,  232. 

^Ibid,    I:    202-203. 

s  Writings  of  J.  Q.  Adams,  ed.  by  Ford,  vol.  II,  p.  229-231,  237. 

^A  description  of  Berlin  and  an  account  of  its  customs  in  1796-1798,  by  W.  Quanter,  is  in  the 
Mittheilungen  des  Vereins  fiir  die  Geschichte  Berlins,  1896,  nos.  8-10.  A  monograph  on  the  Prussian 
court  in  1798,  by  Dr.  Paul  Bailleu,  is  in  Heft  XXXIV  of  the  Schriften  of  the  same  society. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  7 

yet  held  the  highest  places  of  honor  in  the  service  of  the  state;  but  the 
superior  spiritual  energy  of  the  citizenry  already  had  begun  to  make 
itself  felt,  for  to  the  burgher  class  belonged  nearly  all  of  the  scholars 
and  artists,  as  well  as  the  wealthiest  manufacturers  and  merchants. 
Their  growing  strength  in  spirit  and  money  opposed  the  raw  might 
of  privilege  of  the  nobility.-'  Into  this  environment  came  John  Ouincy 
Adams,  Minister  Plenipotentiary  of  the  United  States,  and  his  brother, 
Thomas  Boylston^Adams,  Secretary  of  Legation.  The  journal  of  the 
latter  was  to  its  writer  "as  little  edifying  as  any  book"  with  which  he 
was  acquainted,  and  his  life  of  "no  variety."  John  Quincy  Adams 
closed  the  year  bemoaning  the  fact  that  scarcely  one  evening  in  the 
month  was  free  from  "some  engagement  in  company,"  and  he  added: 
"This  kind  of  hfe,  so  contrary  to  that  which  my  inclination  would  dictate, 
is  unavoidable.  The  year  has  not  in  any  respect  been  a  profitable  one 
to  me."^ 


THE   JOURNAL 

January  1798 


M.  P*  Writing  all  the  morning;  at  2  o'Clock  went  and  dined  at  the  Ville 
de  Paris.^  Met  nobody  that  I  knew.  Came  off  early  and  stopped  at  Casino'* 
where  I  met  my  friend  Baron  de  Rothkirch  who  introduced  me  there,  and  put 
me  in  train  to  be  balloted  for  as  a  member.  Secretary  of  Saxony  there  M. 
Helbig^  Sent  cards  to  some  of  the  foreign  Ministers  and  Secretaries,  but 
made  no  personal  visits.  Evening  upon  my  return  home  found  a  letter  from 
my  friend  Ouincy,^  which  I  little  expected.  He  has  made  his  peace  with  me 
by  it,  and  I  commenced  a  reply  in  form. 

Tu  2.     At  home  all  day;  weather  vexatiously  bad. 

W.  3.  Walk  before  dinner  in  the  park.^  Weather  as  usual.  Evening 
at  home. 

Th.  4.     Long  walk  —  Evening  at  home. 

F.  5.     At  home  till  evening;  then  went  with  my  brother^  to  a  ball  at  the 


1  Streckfuss,  Adolf.     500  Jahre  Berliner  Geschichfe.      Berlin,   1900,  p.   461-463.  J 

^Memoirs,  I:  225.  y^ 

3  The  \'ine  de  Paris  was  one  of  the  first  class  hotels  of  Berlin,  located  on  the  Bruderstrass&r^t  is 

also  written  "Stadt  Paris"  and  "City  of  Paris." ^_' 

^  The  Casino   was  a   suite  of   rooms  appropriated   for  reading  the  newspapers,   journals,   etc.,   and  also 

for   dining,    card-playing   and   billiards.      It    was    supported   by    annual    subscriptions    upon    a    liberal    footing. 

Strangers  were  given  full  privileges  upon  introduction  by  a  member.     Such  places  were  common  in  all  German 

towns   and,    in    fact,    all    over   the   Continent.      They   were   essentially    like   the   modern    gentleman's   club.  — 

Reeves,    Henry.      Journal.  ..  1805-6,    p.    164-165. 

^  He   was   secretary  of  the   Saxon   legation   at   Berlin. 

^Josiah  Quincy  who  was  born  in  1772  and  was  president  of  Harvard  College  for  many  years. 

'  The  Tiergarten,   the  largest  park  near  Berlin,   laid  out  by  order  of  Frederick  the   Great. 

.      ,,    *John  Quincy  Adams.     The  details  given  here  of  the  ball  are  much  fuller  than  the  account  of  J.  Q.  A. 

in  Memoirs,  I:  215. 


8  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Minister  of  State  Heinitz's/  where  a  numerous  party  were  collected.  Their 
Majesty's  the  King^  and  Queen  ^ — the  H.  Prince  of  Orange  &  the  Princess. 
The  king's  two  brothers'*  &  Prince  Augustus;^  and  all  the  nobility,  Ministry 
&  Ambassadors.    A  great  number  of  military  Officers,  and  several  Strangers. 

The  Royal  family  were  generally  very  gracious  &  affable,  tho'  somewhat 
stiff  with  commoners.  The  Queen  is  remarkably  beautiful  &  engaging  — 
She  danced  much  &  quite  in  the  present  English  style.  The  king  likewise 
danced;  the  party  indeed  was  made  for  the  Queen  &  Royal  family;  it  was 
less  formal  by  much  than  I  should  have  expected.  The  Ball  finished  before 
10  o'clock. 

Among  the  foreign  Envoys  whose  names  I  knew  were  the  Russian, 
Count  Panin,^  the  Imperial  Prince  Reuss,''  the  French  M.  Calliart  ^  the  English, 
Lord  Elgin  ^  and  the  Saxon  Count  Sinzindorf  f  ^°  &  the  Palatine,  Baron  de 
Posch.^^  The  Russian,  Prince  Subof f  ^^  Prince  Radziwill,^^  &  Prince  Charles 
of  Nassau  Weilbourg,  were  also  of  the  party.  The  latter,  who  is  said  to  be 
but  20  years  of  age,  is  a  very  monster  in  point  of  size.  Met  my  friend  the 
Baron  Rothkirch.    Le  Marquis  de  Llano  ^"^  was  mecontent  as  usual. 

Rec*^  a  letter  from  J.  Quincy  Esq""  of  a  late  date. 

Sa.  6.     Walk;  writing  most  of  the  day.^^ 

S.  7  Walk.  J.  Q.  A[dams]  dined  with  the  Minister  of  State  Struenzi.^^ 
Ev^  [Evening]  Cassino. 

M  8     Walk  before  dinner  though  not  so  long  as  usual. 

Tu.  9.  Met  his  Majesty  in  the  park  returning  from  his  customary  walk: 
his  brother  the  prince  Henry  was  close  behind  him  attended  by  an  Officer  — 
passed  both  without  saluting  them.     Quer.     Was  this  proper? 

Dined  at  M.  Schicklers  ^^ —  our  Banker;  met  there  considerable  Company, 
most  of  whom  were  strangers  to  me.  Sat  at  table  next  a  friendly  old  Gentle- 
man who  conversed  freely  &  pleasantly  enough.  Young  Swiss  officer,  asked 
me  which  was  the  strongest  party  in  America,  i.  e.  the  most  numerous;  the 
American  party,  said  L  Yes;  but  I  mean,  whether  the  English  or  french  be 
the  strongest.  For  example,  of  what  party  is  your  President  —  What's  his 
name?     Adams  —  Oui.     Of  the  American  party,  said  I  —  Yes  but  you  dont 


^  Friedrich  Anton,  Freiherr  von  Heynitz,  who  died  in  1802. 

="  Friedrich  Wilhelm  III,  born  August  3,  1770,  son  and  successor  of  Friedrich  Wilhelm  II,  who  died  on 
November  16,  1797. 

3  The  celebrated,  beautiful  and  unfortunate  Luise  Auguste  Wilhelmine  Amalie,  Princess  of  Mecklenburg- 
Strelitz,  who  was  married  to  Friedrich  Wilhelm  in  1793,  when  he  was  crown  prince  of  Prussia.  She  was  born 
on  March   10,   1776,  and  died  on  July   19,   1810. 

*  Prince   Heinrich  and   Prince   Wilhelm. 

'  Prince  Augustus  was  the  youngest  son  of  Prince  Ferdinand. 

*  Count  Panin,  Russian  minister  at  Berlin.  The  title  was  created  by  Catherine  II  and  the  line  is  now 
extinct. 

'  Perhaps    Prince    Heinrich    XXV. 

*  The  French  minister  at  Berlin  who  preceded  Sieyes. 
'  English  minister  at  Berlin. 

^0  General  Friedrich  August,  Graf  von  Zinzendorf,  Saxon  minister  at  Berlin,  1777-1799.     Died  in  1806. 
"  Franz  Carl,  Freiherr  von  Posch.     The  title  was  created  in  1793  and  is  now  extinct. 
"  Also  Zuboff ,  a  Russian  general. 

13  Prince  Anton  Heinrich  Radziwill,  who  married  in  1796  the  Princess  Luise  of  Prussia,  sister  of  Prince 
Louis  Ferdinand.     He  died  in  1833. 
^*  Marques  de  los  Llanos. 

1=  On  this  evening  J.  Q.  Adams  attended  a  ball  given  by  the  Baron  von  Alvensleben.  — Memoirs,  I:  215. 
1*  Karl  August  von  Struensee,  who  became  Prussian  minister  of  state  in  1791  and  died  in  1804. 
"  One  of  the  house  of  Schickler  or  Schiickler,  makers  of  arms  at  Spandau,  and  bankers  at  Berlin. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  9 

understand  me.  Here  his  attention  was  taken  of  f  by  some  person  speaking  to 
him,  and  I  was  glad  to  be  relieved  from  further  explanation.  He  knew  not 
how  much  he  embarrassed  me.  Speaking  of  his  own  Country  he  said  — 
"I  wish  Sir,  that  the  Swiss  Cantons  were  as  far  removed  from  France  as  you 
are  —  If  they  subject  my  nation  to  their  will,  I  am  firmly  resolved  to  go  to 
America."  I  thought  favorably  of  the  young  man  for  this  display  of 
independence. 

After  return  from  dinner  went  to  the  play,  &  saw  der  Spieler  a  German 
piece  of  which  I  understood  but  little,    thin  house.  —  Weather  extremely  cold. 

Wed  10*^  Took  a  long  walk  in  town,  in  search  of  skaits  —  bought  a  pair, 
but  found  no  ice. 

Evening  at  a  ball  at  the  Count  Arnim's  ^ —  the  Royal  family  and  all  the 
Court  there.  Made  acquaintance  with  M""  Garlike  Sec^  to  the  English  legation. 
The  ladies  were  uncommonly  brilliant.    Came  off  early. 

Th  11.  Sallied  out  this  morn^  in  search  of  Ice  for  skaiting  found  some 
very  good  upon  the  side  of  the  River.^ 

Skaited  an  hour  or  two  almost  alone.     Evening  at  home. 

Fri.  12""  Received  notice  in  form  of  my  admission  to  the  Casino,  and 
paid  the  fees  for  the  first  Class  of  members.  Skaiting  again;  Ev^  [Evening] 
a  little  while  at  the  Casino. 

Sat  13*^  Went  upon  the  ice  —  great  numbers  of  people  there.  Ev^ 
at  home. 

Sun   14*^     Rainy  day  —  at  home.^ 

Mon  IS**"  Short  walk  —  Evening  at  Prince  Ferdinand's"*  by  invitation 
to  supper  —  Introduced  by  the  Baron  de  Geertz  ^  to  the  prince  &  by  Count 
Sidow^  to  the  princess;  by  Mile  Haagen''  to  the  Landgrave,  &  by  the  [blank 
space-\  to  Prince  Augustus.  Met  B[aron]  Rothkirch,  and  passed  the  evening 
more  satisfactorily  than  I  had  anticipated.  M.  de  Sidow  made  a  party  of  whist 
for  me  with  the  Mad.  de  Bredow  himself  &  another  Count.  Stayed  —  supper 
&  conversed  with  the  two  Chamberlains.  R[Othkirch]  introduced  me  to  Mad 
the  Countess  Goltz,^  a  fine  woman. 

Tu  16*^^     Walked  a  little  &  home  all  day  after. 

Wed  17*^  Walk  of  some  length —  troubled  with  Rhumatism  Ev^  at 
the  Grand  Marechal  Count  Podewils  ^  at  a  splendid  ball,  like  all  the  rest  very 
tiresome  to  me.  Think  it  would  suit  me  better  to  stay  at  home.  Met  the 
usual  company.    Home  at  10^^  quite  tired  &  cross. 


iGraf  Friedrich  Wilhelm  von  Arnim,  b.  1739;  d.  1801.  The  title  was  conferred  on  him  by  Friedrich 
Wilhelm  II,  of  Prussia,  in  1786. 

2  The  Spree. 

*J.  Q.  Adams  spent  this  Sunday  night  at  a  court  ball  and  supper,  and  played  whist  with  ^Madame  de 
Lutzow,   Mile  de   Hagen  and  Count  von   Moltke.  —  Memoirs,   I:   215. 

*  Prince  Ferdinand  (b.  1730;  d.  1813)  was  Grand  Master  of  the  Order  of  Malta  within  the  Prussian 
dominions  and  resided  at  the  Palace  of  the  Order  of  Malta.  His  princess  was  a  daughter  of  the  Margrave 
of  Brandenburg-Schwedt,   a   cousin   of   Friedrich   Wilhelm   II   of   Prussia. 

^  Johann  Eustachius  von  Schlitz,  called  Gorz. 

*  Also  spelled  Sydow. 

'  Perhaps  Albertine  Ernestine  Luise  vom  Hagen,  b.  1779;  d.  1852;  m.  von  Motz. 

*  She  was  perhaps  the  wife  of  Count  Leopold  Heinrich  von  der  Goltz.  In  1806  there  were  as  many 
as  twenty-one  counts,  barons,  etc.,  of  this  family  in  the  Prussian  service. 

^  He  was  grand  marshal  of  the  king's  court. 


10  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Thurs  IS^i^     Walk  before  dinner;  Ev^  at  the  play.^    Rl.     f^^  there. 

Fri.  19*''     Walk  as  yesterday.     Ev^  home. 

Sat.  20*''  Walk,  put  letters  into  the  post  office,  and  went  to  several  shops 
with  my  brother.^ 

Sun  2P*     Walk  in  the  park  —  fine  day;  Ev^  at  home. 

Mon  22^^     Long  walk  to  get  rid  of  rhumatism,  very  lame. 

Tu  23*^     Kept  house  all  day  on  ace*  of  my  lameness. 

Wed  24  All  day  at  home;  even^  at  Prince  Ferdinand's.  Mrs.  A[dams] 
went  for  the  first  time.  Made  acquaintance  with  M*"  the  Captain  Knoblauch 
Charge  d'aff.  of  Denmark  Played  with  M.  de  Sidow  M.  de  Geertz  &  a 
channoine  or  Dom-herr  von  Posen.  Ret^  before  supper.  Madame  Parrella,'* 
Mad  de  Goltz  were  of  the  party  —  The  princess  Louise  &  her  Prince  Radziwill 
were  there  some  part  of  the  Ev^.  Mile  Neal,  dame  d'honneur  to  the  princess 
Louise  is  a  pretty  woman.    Letters  from  America  via  England. 

Thurs  25  Home  till  night,  then  at  a  ball  at  the  Countess  de  Haack's  ^ — 
Danced  with  M"  A[dams]  the  first  dance  —  came  off  early,  &  somewhat 
discontented  at  the  loss  of  time  —  Garlike  introduced  me  to  Mile  Neal,  & 
Mile  de  Wartensleben. 

Frid  26*''  Walked  after  dinner  under  the  trees,  though  still  a  cripple. 
Stopped  little  while  at  Casino. 

Sat.  27*''     Vacant 

Sun  28*''     Dined  at  V[ille]  de  P[aris]    sat  next  one  of  the  young  women 

—  very  chatty  —  an  English  woman  there  and  her  husband  from  Bergen  in 
Norway. 

Baron  Rothkirch;  Chev:  de  la  Motte,  conversation  with  them.  I  talk  too 
much  after  drinking  a  bottle  of  Chatteau  margot;  must  amend. 

Ret^  [Returning]  home  stopped  a  moment  at  Casino. 

Mon.  29*''     Walk;  less  lame  than  of  late. 

Tues  30*''^  Walk;  found  the  ice  would  bear;  hired  Skeats  and  exercised 
for  half  an  hour;  met  a  man  who  rivaled  me.  Complimented  each  other,  as 
usual  in  such  cases  —  "You  skeat  well  Sir."    "And  so  do  you  Sir." 

Wed  31^*  Change  of  weather,  thaw  —  skeated  again  notwithstanding, 
but  was  driven  off  by  the  rain. 

Ev^  little  time  at  Casino. 

Thurs  P*  February     Bad  weather,  at  home. 

Fri  —  2^     M*"  Jeffrey  from  England,  last  from  Hamburg  called  upon  us 

—  Dined  with  him  at  the  Ville  de  Paris;  introduced  to  his  travelling  companion 
M.  Parain  a  f rench  emigrant  —  Introduced  Jeffrey  at  Casino. 

Satur  2>^     Walk  in  the  park  —  M^  J[ef frey]  dined  with  us. 


1  The  play  was  Palmira,  Princess  of  Persia,  a  German  translation  of  an  Italian  opera,  with  magnificent 
scenery,  pretty  good  music  and  tolerable  performers.  —  Adams,  J.   Q.     Memoirs,   I:   216. 
-  Royal    family. 

*  John    Quincy    Adams. 

*  Wife   of   Marquis   Parella,    Sardinian   minister   at   Berlin. 
^  Also    von    Hacke. 

*  J.  Q.  Adams  attended  a  ball  on  this  evening  at  General  Kunheim's,  where  "more  than  five  hundred 
persons"  were  present.  It  was  held  in  honor  of  the  general's  sixty-sixth  birthday  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of 
service   in   the   army. — Memoirs,    I:    216. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  H 

Sund  4*  Walk  —  dined  at  home  —  afterwards  called  on  J[effrey]  at 
the  V[ille]  de  P[aris]  —  went  to  the  play,  but  found  no  places  —  came  off  & 
played  a  game  of  whist  at  the  V[ille]  de  P[aris]  with  J[effrey]  M.  Parain  & 
Baron  Rothkirch. 

Mon  5'^  M""  J[effrey]  called  to  take  leave  of  us.  Even^  at  Prince 
Ferdinands  —  party  of  whist  with  Mile  de  Haagen  ^  &  others. 

Tues  6^^     Walk  —  Even^  at  home. 

Wed  7*''  Walk  before  dinner  —  Even^  at  Count  Zinzindorff's  —  Tea 
&  Cards  —  played  Cassino  for  the  first  time  with  Mad:  de  Haugwitz  ^ —  Mad: 
de  Knoblesdorf f  ^  &  M.  [blank]  Conversed  with  Mile  La  Comtesse  Neal  a 
charming  girl. 

Thurs  S**"     Walk  —  Evening  some  time  at  Casino. 

Frid  9*^^     Walk  —  Bill'ds  [Billiards]  at  Casino  with  the  chambellon.'* 

Satur  10*     At  home  all  day  —  very  busy  writing. 

Sun  11*     Walk. 

Mond  12*  Received  a  letter  from  my  mother  ^  of  3  Jan^  and  began  an 
answer  to  it.     Ev^  Casino. 

Tues  13*     Short  walk. 

Wed  14*     Walk  —  Ev^  Casino 

Thurs  15*  As  yesterday — finished  my  letter  to  my  mother  and  sent 
it  off. 

Friday  16*     Walk  —  purchased  a  sword  —  Rec"^  letter  from  Ross. 

Saturd  17*     Walk  —  Ev^  at  Casino  —  M'-  Belsches 

Sund  18*  Short  walk  in  the  park — fine  day  —  Evening  at  Prince 
Ferdinand's  —  Introduced  to  the  Princess  Louise  &  to  Prince  Radziwil  — 
The  young  Countess  Neal  was  very  gracious  —  Played  whist  with  Baron 
Geertz  —  a  polish  Count  &  M 

Mond  19*     Walk  of  some  length  —  Ev^  short  time  at  Casino 

Tues  20*  Dined  at  M*"  Schicklers  with  a  large  Company  —  Ev^  Billds 
[Billiards]  at  Casino  with  the  Count. 

Wed  21.     Walk  —  passed  the  day  as  usual. 

Thurs  22  Walk  —  Ev^  at  a  Ball  at  the  Minister  Finckensteins  ^  danced 
with  Mile  Neal.     Came  off  early. 

Frid  23"^     Skeated  this  morning,  but  the  thaw  has  begun. 

Satur  24*     Short  walk  —  park  very  wet. 

Sund  25*  A  letter  to  the  Sec^  of  State ''  was  found  this  morn^  in  the 
street  by  a  soldier,  and  after  being  carried  to  several  places  was  at  last  taken 
to  Lord  Elgins,  the  British  Minister,  and  by  him  or  some  of  his  family, 
directed  to  be  brought  to  us.  Upon  investigating  the  affair  it  appears  that  our 
German  Serv*  had  entrusted  this  letter  with  some  others  to  one  of  his  acquaint- 


^  Correctly   vom    Plagen. 

2  Wife  of  Count   Heinrich  Christian  Curt   von   Haugwitz.   third   Prussian   minister  of  state. 

3  Wife  of  Gen.  Alexander  Friedrich  von  Knobelsdorf,  who  became  field  marshal  in  1798  and  died  in  1799. 

*  Chamberlain. 

°  Abigail  Adams,  wife  of  President  John  Adams. 

*  Karl    Wilhelm,   Graf   Finck  von   Finckenstein,   who   died   in    1800.      He   was   the   oldest   and   principal 
Prussian    minister    of    state. 

'  Timothy    Pickering. 


12  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

ance  to  take  to  the  post  office,  about  a  fortnight  ago  —  and  paid  him  the 
postage  for  one  of  the  packets  —  The  fellow  kept  the  letter  &  the  money,  until 
this  morning,  when  he  either  lost  or  threw  the  letter  in  the  street.  Frederic 
brought  the  fellow  to  us  and  he  confessed  the  whole  matter,  apparently  much 
terrified  with  the  menace  which  Fred,  undertook  to  make  of  sending  him  to 
Jail  —  He  was  perhaps  of  the  two  not  the  most  culpable. 

Walk  — Ev^  at  Casino,  Billds  [Billiards]  with  M.  de  Knoblauch  &  le 
Comte  de  Luttichau.-^ 

Monday  2G^     As  usual  —  walk  —  Casino  &'^^ 

Tuesday  27*^  As  yesterday  —  no  variety  —  my  journal  is  as  little  edify- 
ing as  any  book  I  know  of. 

Wed  28*''  Long  walk  in  town  —  Dined  at  the  Ville  de  Paris.  Met  there 
Baron  Rotkirch.     Ev^  at  Casino. 

Thursday  P*     March.     Walk  —  fine  day. 

Frid  2^     Charming  weather  —  long  walk  —  everybody  out.    Ev^  Casino 

—  Billds  [Billiards]  with  Rotkirch  &  Liittichau. 

Satur  3*^  Ev^  Ball  at  Prince  Ferdinand's  —  very  pleasant.  I  danced  with 
Mile  Dorville  Mile  Neal  &  Mile  de  Molck.^ 

Sund  4    Short  walk  —  Ev^  Casino  &  home  —  Began  a  letter  to  my  father.^ 

Mon  5.     As.  yesterday. 

Tues  6  Ev^  at  the  Grand  Maitre  de  Dorville's  '^ —  Party  &  Supper  & 
Ball  —  Danced  with  La  jeune  Comtesse  Neal. 

Wed  7.     Walk,  Casino  after  dinner  —  Billds  [Billiards]  with  Liittichau. 

Thurs  8.  Walk  —  fine  day  —  Ev^  at  D'"  Browns,  where  we  drank  tea 
&  passed  the  time  very  pleasantly  —  quite  in  the  English  stile.  Company  Mile 
Neal  Mesdes'  Bruhl,^  Mile  Bishopswerder;^  Lord  Gower  M""  Belsches,  &  the 
D"  family  who  are  very  sociable  &  well  bred  —  the  youngest  daughter  is  very 
handsome  —  the  other  two  by  no  means  plain  —  hope  to  be  better  acquainted 
there. 

Frid  9     Walk  —  Ev^  at  Casino 

Satur  10     As  yesterday. 

Sund  11  Walk  on  the  left  side  of  the  park,  which  is  laid  out  with  more 
taste  than  the  other,  but  very  few  people  prefer  at  this  season  taste  to  comfort, 
of  course  few  walk  there.    Ev^  home  tho'  a  little  while  at  Casino. 

Mond  12  Stormy  disagreeable,  snowy  weather  —  walked  nevertheless 
in  Park  —  Ev^  at  D""  Browns  with  INI"  A[dams]  pleasant  time  —  Lord  Gower 
took  leave  for  England  —  Miss  Isabella  is  a  charming  girl.    M""  A[dams]  came 

—  read  newspapers  &  then  took  us  off. 

Tuesday  \Z^^  Walk  —  Ev^  Casino  —  billds  [billiards]  with  Liittichau  & 
Whist  with  M.  Helbig  — &  Darville^  &  Knovikoff.^ 


1  Perhaps    Count    Christian    Friedrich    Tonne   von    Liittichau,    b.    1748. 

2  Of  the  well-known   family   of  von   Moltke. 

*  President   John   Adams. 

*  Louis  de  Dorville  who  was  "Oberhofmeister  der  Konigin  Elisabeth  Christine."     He  died  in  1801. 
'  The   name   is  von   Briihl. 

^  Daughter   of   Johann    Rudolph    von    Bischofswerder. 
'  Dorville. 

*  Novikoff   in   other   places   in   this   journal. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  13 

Wed  14*^  Young  Brown  ^  called  on  me  &  we  took  a  walk  together  — 
Ev^  at  Casino  some  time. 

Thurs  15'^  Walk  alone  —  fine  day  —  Ev^  at  D*"  Brown's  —  met  Lord 
Foulkstone  there;  introduced  to  him  —  passed  the  time  pleasantly. 

Frid  16*^  Called  at  10.  this  morning  upon  young  Brown  who  took  me 
to  see  the  riding  Schools^ — they  are  kept  in  a  very  handsome  style.  The 
schools  adjoin  the  king's  Stables  which  are  very  spacious  &  well  filled  with 
horses.     Saw  the  cavalry  exercise  in  riding  —  Ev^  Casino. 

Saturd  17     Walk  —  Ev^  Casino. 

Sun  18     As  yesterday. 

Mond  19  M*"  A[dams]  has  had  a  violent  rhumatism  in  his  right  arm  for 
several  days  past,  which  has  prevented  him  from  writing  &  consequently  has 
given  me  a  respit.  He  went  to  the  princess  Henry's  this  ev^  &  M"  A[dams] 
with  self  went  to  D''  Brown's.  pleasant  girls  —  M""  Garlike  —  Mile 
Bishopswerder. 

Tues  20     Walk  —  afternoon  Casino. 

Wed  21  Engaged  for  some  days  in  reading  Martens's  Droit  de  Gens'^ 
—  Walk  —  Evs  Casino. 

Thurs  22     Bad  weather  —  walked  in  park  —  Casino. 

Frid  23  Walked  great  part  of  the  way  to  Charlottenburg  with  young 
Brown  —  Ev^  Casino. 

Satur  24  The  Baron  Schultz  Minister  of  Sweden  died  on  Thursday  — 
Walking  met  Brown  on  horseback  —  returned  with  him  —  Ev^  Casino. 

Sun.  25*'^     Walk  met  B[rown]    Ev^  at  his  house. 

Mon  26.     Took  a  ride  to  Charlottenburg  on  horseback  with  Brown 

Tues  27,     Walk.     Evening  at  Casino  —  Mile  Neal  drank  tea  at  our's. 

Wed  28^^^  As  yesterday  —  W^ent  to  the  play  with  B[rown]  Hyeronimus 
Knicker"^ — laughable  Comedy  rather  buffoon  —  Miss  B[ruhl]S  &  Neal. 

Thurs  29  Walk  before  dinner  —  Ev^  play  with  Belches  —  Rothkirch 
called  at  D""  Browns,  ladies  out, 

Friday  30.     Walk  —  Ev^  Casino. 

Satur  31     Long  walk  —  bad  cold  —  Casino, 

Sund  P*  April  Snowed  last  night  &  to  day  —  walk  cold  worse.  Mile 
Neal  drank  tea  with  M"  A[dams]. 

Mond:  2.     Kept  house  all  day  —  cold  extremely  severe  quite  sick. 

Tues  3.     Cold  still  very  bad;  went  to  Casino  for  an  hour. 

Wed.  4     Took  a  long  walk  which  was  of  service  to  the  cold. 

Thursd  5     Walk  —  Casino Met  B[rown]  on  horseback. 

Frid  6'^  Called  on  Brown  to  go  with  him  to  the  riding  school,  but  being 
good  friday  the  school  was  not  open  —  took  a  ride  to  Charlottenburg  with 
B[rown]  &  Belsches. 


*  William  Brown. 

2  The  royal  riding  academy  founded  in  1718. 

*  Martens,   Georg   Friedrich  von.     Precis   du  Droit   des  Gens  moderne  de  I'Europe.      Gottingen,    1789. 
2  vols.        8°. 

'A  German  operetta  by  Karl   Ditters  von  Dittersdorf,   first  published   in   1792,  and  brought  out  again 


'  A  uerman  operetta  oy  Karl   JJitters  von  JJitt« 
with  alterations  by  Christian  August  Vulpius  in  1793. 


14  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Afternoon  at  a  Concert  held  at  the  Opera  house  —  the  death  of  Jesus  ^ 

—  Music  said  to  be  fine  —  superb  ■ —  I  went  to  see  the  hall,  but  saw  it  not. 
Took  leave  early  and  went  to  D""  Brown's.    The  Countess  Briihl's  there. 

Saturd.  7.  Called  at  Casino;  met  Rotkirch  —  took  a  walk  with  him  & 
then  went  to  dine  at  the  City  of  Paris  ^ —  after  dinner  at  the  Catholic  Church,^ 
built  in  imitation  of  the  Rotunda  at  Rome  —  Walk  under  the  trees  —  Casino 

—  Adventure  with  Mile  Neal. 

Sund.  8.  Walk  —  Ev^  with  Brown  &  Belsches.  Made  an  acquaintance 
or  two. 

Mond  9.  Went  out  to  Charlottenburg  in  a  Berlin  Waggon  with  young 
Brown.  Met  there  the  young  ladies  &  Mile  Bruhl's  —  The  old  folks  came 
afterwards  —  passed  a  pleasant  forenoon  with  them.  Even^  at  their  house  in 
town  M"  A[dams]  &  Neal. 

Tuesd  10     Walk  —  Ev^  Casino. 

Wed  11     As  yesterday  —  Mile  Neal  drank  tea  with  M^'  A[dams]. 

Thurs  12     Walk  —  and  after  dinner  another  in  the  Garden  of  Bellevue 

—  the  Country  seat  of  Prince  Ferdinand  with  M.  the  Chamberlain  Katte, 
whom  I  take  to  be  an  idiot  —  after  tea  at  Casino  —  Bill'ds  [Billiards]. 

Frid   13     Called  on  Brown  —  Dentist  there  —  employed  him  —  Walk 

—  met  Rothkirch  &  Brown  on  horse  back  —  Even^  at  Casino  &  home       M*"® 
Brown  &  Isabella  —  M""  Richards. 

Satur  14  Went  with  Brown  to  the  riding  master,  engaged  for  the  month 
to  begin  Monday  next  —  called  at  several  places  —  Walk  after  in  Park;  started 
several  sorts  of  game.     Casino  —  Billds  [Billiards]  with  Helbig. 

Sun  15  Walk  with  Brown  —  Evening  Play  with  the  Brown  family  — 
Play  called  new  Sunday  child,  in  German  neusontagskind^ 

Mond  16  Took  my  first  lesson  at  the  Royal  riding  Accademy —  Ploen, 
Ritmeister.  This  School  has  existed  since  1718,  and  is  supported  at  the  King's 
expence. 

Walk  afterwards  —  passed  the  evening  at  D""  Browns  Countess  Bruhl  & 
Neal  —  Dust  insufferable. 

Tuesday  17  Second  lesson  at  eight  precisely  —  several  Scholars  or 
learners  —  the  Abbe  Comte  de  Busy  is  one.  Walk  before  &  after  dinner  — 
Helbig  —  Luttichau  &'=^ 

Wed  18     Walk  — Casino. 

Thurs  19  Verry  long  walk  with  Comte  de  Luttichau —  wafers  at  the 
tents  —  Third  lesson  this  morning  —  violent  pain  in  my  head,  which  all  my 
exercise  did  not  remove  —  half  an  hour  at  D''  Browns. 

Frid  20     Head  ach  still  —  The  Miss  Browns  drank  tea  with  M"  Adams 

—  young  B[rown]  came  afterwards. 


1  Der  Tod  Jesu,  a  "Passions-Cantata,"  composed  by  Karl  Heinrich  Graun  to  words  by  Ramler.  One 
of  the  few  great  oratorios  of  the  second  half  of  the  eighteenth  century,  first  executed  on  March  26,  1755  in 
the  Cathedral  of  Berlin,  and  repeated  annually  for  more  than  a  century  thereafter  during  Passion  Week. 

2  The  Hotel  Ville  de  Paris. 

2  The  Catholic  church  of  St.  Hedwig,  begfun  by  Biiring  and  Le  Gay  in  1747  and  finished  by  Bouman, 
the  elder,  in  1773.     It  was  modelled  after  the  Pantheon  at  Rome. 

*  This  German  operetta  by  Wenzel  Mueller  was  first  presented  in  1793  at  Vienna.  The  libretto  was 
adapted  by  Joachim  Perinet. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  15 

Saturday  21  Pain  in  my  head  still  continues;  kept  house  &  at  night  took 
an  emetic. 

Sunday  22^^  Not  yet  well  —  Rhumatism  in  my  head  &  other  parts  — 
walk  after  dinner  in  the  garden  of  Bellevue. 

Monday  23d     Head  still  much  affected  —  confident  it  is  the  rheumatism. 

Tues  24'*^     Went  to  riding  school  notwithstanding  the  pain  in  my  head 

—  not  much  the  worse  for  it.    M""^  Brown  &  Bell  drank  tea  with  us. 

Wed  25*^     Walk  in  park  —  Ev^  Casino  &  D"-  Brown's. 

Thurs  2G^  Riding  school  —  the  pain  in  my  head  less  violent,  but  not 
removed  —  Company  to  tea.  Took  a  ride  with  young  Brown  —  He  rode  an 
horse,  which  I  think  to  purchase,  like  him  very  well. 

Friday  27'*'  School  this  morning  —  Ride  —  called  several  times  upon 
M.  von  Quast  to  finish  the  bargain  for  his  horse  —  could  not  see  him. 

Saturday  28*^  Called  on  Quast  —  gone  out  —  called  on  Baron  Roth- 
kirch  who  went  with  me  to  buy  a  saddle  —  Ride  on  my  horse  to  Charlottenburg 
where  drank  tea  with  the  Miss  Browns  &  Countess  Briihls  family.  Ret"^  to 
D""  B[rown]S  but  did  not  stay  [toj  supper. 

Sunday  29*^  Rode  out  with  young  Brown  to  see  a  lake  about  6  miles 
from  town  —  could  not  find  it  —  excessively  warm  —  Returning  overtook 
a  smart  shower.  Dined  for  first  time  at  D''  Browns,  D""  at  Pottsdam.^  Ev^ 
Comedy  —  der  baum  der  diana  ^  the  piece,  fine  music  —  Supp'd  at  same 
place  —  Delivered  to  M""  Richards  the  money  to  pay  for  my  horse. 

Mond:  30*^  Riding  School  —  Ev^  took  a  delightful  tour  on  horseback 
with  B[rown]  Jun*"  through  several  neighboring  villages  —  Return'd  by  Tem- 
plehof  —  Evening  at  Casino  —  Put  my  horse  to  a  new  stable. 

Tues  P*  May  Dined  at  M""  Shickler's  with  considerable  company,  most 
of  the  old  club  —  Rode  after  dinner  to  Charlottenburg  &  returned  to  supper  at 
D""  Browns  —  I  grow  too  intimate  there. 

Wed  2'^  Went  to  the  review  of  troops  this  morning  —  about  15,000 
Infantry  who  made  a  formidable  &  handsome  appearance  —  the  General 
Mollendorf f  •^  is  commander  in  chief.    Took  a  long  ride  by  myself  afterwards 

—  Evening  some  time  at  Casino. 

Thurs  3*^  Riding  school  —  Rode  by  myself  after  dinner  on  return  found 
M"  Brown  &  the  young  ladies  at  our  house  —  attended  them  home  &  supp'd 
there  —  Mile  Neal. 

Frid  4'^  School  again  somewhat  advanced.  Short  walk  before  dinner, 
&  ride  to  Charlottenburg  after  drank  tea  &  returned  with  D""  &  W"  Brown 

—  Casino. 

Saturd  5*^  Ride  by  myself  after  dinner.  Evening  at  D""  Browns  with 
M"  Adams. 


1  Dr.  Brown,  of  Potsdam,  an  Englishman,  was  physician  to  Queen  Louise  and  the  royal  family. 
Cf.  Reeves,  Henry.     Jotirnal,  p.  177-178. 

-This  operetta  was  composed  by  \'incenzo  Martini  (^lartin  y  Soler),  with  Italian  libretto  by 
Lorenzo  da  Ponte.  The  German  version  by  Christian  Gottlob  Neefe  appeared  in  1795,  and  there  was  an 
earlier  German  translation  by  Ferdinand  Eberl  in   1787. 

»  Field  Marshal  Wichard  Joachim  Heinrich  von  Mollendorff,  b.   1724;   d.   1816. 


15  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Sun  6'^'  Weather  vastly  pleasant  for  near  a  fortnight  past,  though  very 
warm  and  intolerably  dusty.  Afternoon  at  Casino  —  Billds  [Billiards]  with 
Liittichau  &  Helbig. 

Mon  7^^  Riding  school  at  7  this  morn^,  first  there  —  Ride  towards 
night  alone  —  Miss  Brown's  Miss  Estorf  f  &  M""  Garlike  at  our  house  —  Went 
home  and  stayed  supper  with  them. 

Tuesday  8'^  At  School  again  little  past  7.  Young  Bodoin  there.  Ride 
before  dinner  —  afternoon  Casino  &  Count  Zinzendorffs  at  a  tea  —  came 
off  soon  &  went  to  D'  Browns  —  young  Countess  Briihl  —  M""^  Cohen  &  her 
son  Johnny. 

Wed  9*^  Not  well  yesterday  or  to  day  —  Took  a  ride  to  Charlottenburg 
after  dinner  with  Brown  Jun""  —  Return  overtook  M"  Brown  &  the  young 
ones  —  saw  them  home  &  came  off.    Dined  at  V[ille]  de  P[aris]  with  Rotkirch. 

Thurs  10'''  Attended  a  special  review  of  the  Infantry  —  the  king  was 
very  early  upon  the  ground  —  great  crowd  of  people  and  uncomfortably 
dusty  —  much  gratified. 

Frid  1 1*''  Review  of  Cavalry  this  morn^ —  Gens  d'armes  &  Huzzar's 
—  fine  troupes  —  Review  began  at  5^  and  was  over  at  7.  went  afterwards 
to  riding  school.  Rode  my  own  horse,  which  is  grown  somewhat  too  frisky 
for  want  of  riding.    Ev^  Casino  &  home. 

Satur  12*^  Ride  alone  of  some  length  —  Ev^  Casino  &  D'"  Browns  — 
M--  Garlike  M""  Courtois,  Miss  Briihls  8i^^ 

Sun  13'^     Did  not  ride  to  day,  but  took  a  walk  of  some  length  —  Casino. 

Mond  14  Walk  again  —  at  School  this  morning.  Ev^  at  D*"  Browns 
with  Countess  Neal  &  M""^  Adams  —  I  stayed  supper. 

Tues  15  Riding  School  again  —  Took  a  long  solitary  ride  between  1  & 
3  —  too  hot. 

Wed  16  Out  this  morning  at  a  review  of  Infantry — five  Regiments 
out  —  Manoeuvres  well  performed  —  very  dusty.  Evening  the  Miss  Browns 
with  us,  attended  them  home  &  stayed  supper. 

Thurs  17.  Walk  before  dinner  —  excessively  hot  —  Rothkirch  at  D'' 
Browns  —  rode  with  W"  [Browm  to  Charlottenburg;  passed  an  hour  at 
Count  Briihl's  ^ —  Letters  from  America. 

Frid  18  Out  at  5}^  to  see  the  exercise  of  Cavalry  —  3  Regiments 
besides  the  Hussa's  —  somewhat  amused  &  gratified.  Met  Rothkirch  &  von 
Quast  —  Had  a  narrow  escape  from  a  disagreeable  accident,  by  losing  my 
left  stirrup. 

Saturd  19  Dined  at  M""  Shicklers  with  a  company  mostly  composed  of 
french  emigrants  —  The  Abbe  de  Balliviere  —  M^  de  Brizac  chamberlain  of 
the  King  of  Naples  —  a  Swedish  Nobleman  Baron  d'Armfeld  —  An  Officer 
of  Prince  de  Conde's  Army  M  de  Rouville  M""  Taylor  an  Englishman  &  one 
or  two  others  —  After  coming  away  from  dinner  turned  to  my  left  &  then  to 
my  right  hand,  which  took  me  directly  out  of  town  &  caused  me  two  hours 
walking  before  I  could  find  the  way  in  again  —  extremely  fatigued  &  worried 

'  Count  Karl  Adolph  von  Briihl. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  17 

by  the  exercise  which  I  was  in  no  condition  to  bear  —  find  myself  quite  ill  — 
most  unfortunately  at  this  time.  Called  on  Brown  &  he  went  with  me  to  buy 
a  sabre  —  purchased  an  enamel'd  ring  and  disposed  of  it. 

Sund  20  Passed  a  very  sleepless  &  unpleasant  night,  owing  to  indisposi- 
tion anxiety  &  fatigue  —  Rose  at  8,  did  little  all  day  —  young  B[row]n  called 
— ■  Took  a  gentle  sleep  from  5  till  10  &  then  went  to  bed  —  Slept  soundly  all 
night  notwithstanding. 

Mond  21  Up  at  4^^  and  off  at  5  to  see  the  review^ — came  on  the 
ground  when  the  Cavalry  just  began  their  manoeuvres  —  stayed  till  it  began  to 
rain  and  threatened  more,  then  came  off  the  field  leaving  everybody  there  — 
got  partly  wet,  but  comparatively  escaped  very  well  —  others  were  soaked 

—  after  dinner  called  on  B[rown]  and  went  with  him  to  see  a  very  useful 
acquaintance  —  who  told  me  a  secret  respecting  myself,  which  I  shall  not 
readily  forget.     Ev^  Miss  Br°ns  [Browns]  at  our  house. 

Tuesday  22  Again  at  Review  ^ —  liked  it  better  than  yesterday  Troops 
perform  their  evolutions  to  perfection,  though  as  a  soldier  I  pretend  to  know 
nothing  of  the  matter.  Returned  in  good  season,  called  on  B[rown]  Jun""  &  after 
upon  G[arlike]. 

Wednes  23     Last  day  of  the  Review,^  out  with  my  brother  in  a  carriage 

—  weather  excessively  cold  &  uncomfortable.  Manoeuvres  very  sensible 
though  rather  unintelligible  to  me  —  returned  by  the  encampment  of  the 
Dragoon's,  Regiment  of  Prince  Louis  (Ferdinand)     Evening  at 

Thurs  24  Introduced  at  Court,  Ball  &  Supper  —  came  off  early  with 
Belsches,  very  glad  when  the  ceremony  was  over.     The  king  observed  to  me 

—  "vous  avez  ete  ici  tout  cet  hyver?"  Oui  —  The  Queen  —  How  long  have 
you  been  at  Berlin?  Je  suis  arrive  avec  mon  frere  il  y  a  six  mois  —  "Vous 
vous  plaisez  ici?"  "Infiniment."  Prince  Henry  —  Avez  vous  ete  longtems 
ici  ?    Environ  six  mois,  mon  Seigneur — 

Prince  Charles  of  Nassau  —  spoke  to  me  of  my  uniform  enquired  how 
many  troops  we  have  upon  foot  —  &''^  Being  now  one  of  the  initiated  I  may 
follow  the  fashions  if  agreeable  —  Court  held,  first  time  at  the  old  Pallace. 

Frid  25  Rode  alone  before  dinner  to  Charlottenburg  and  afternoon  with 
young  Brown  —  drank  tea  there. 

Satur  26  At  home  till  Ev^  very  busy  in  writing,  then  at  Casino  —  Bill'^^ 
[Billiards]  with  an  Englishman  —  Helbig  &  Liittichau. 

Sund  27  Took  a  ride  —  Ev^  at  D'"  Brown's  —  Baron  Rothkirch  — 
MlleEstoff^&'=^ 

Mond  28  Writing  all  day  very  hard  Ev^  at  D""  B[rown]S  with  M"""  A[dams] 
after  taking  a  ride  with  young  B[rown]  to  Charlotbu^. 

Tues  29     Busy  again  writing  —  Ev^  rode  with  D""  &  Brown  Jun*". 


1  J.  Q.  Adams  states  that  the  review  on  this  day  lasted  until  "between  ten  and  eleven"  in  the  forenoon 
and  that  there  were  five  regiments  of  cavalry  and  ten  regiments  of  infantry,  totalling  26,000  men.  — 
Memoirs,    I:    216. 

2  According  to  J.  Q.  Adams  the  "reviews  and  manoeuvres"  were  finished  on  this  day  between  nine  and 
ten  o'clock  in  the  morning.  —  Memoirs,  I:  217. 

*  No  record  of  this  day's  review  is  given  in  the  printed  Memoirs  of  J.  Q.   Adams. 

*  Estorff. 


18  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Wed  30  Paid  one  month's  keeping  for  my  horse  Rode  to  Charlotten- 
burg  with  B[rown]  Jun""  visited  Count  Briihl  —  Company  Mad""  Ritezel  ^ — 
Munchhausen  —  Mile  Kale  ^ —  Mad""  de  Berg  ^  &  her  daughter  —  Mile  Neal 
&  Baron  Alvensleben  —  Ret^  with  D""  B[rown]. 

Thurs  31  Engaged  all  the  morning  packing  up  for  removal  to  our  new 
lodgings  in  the  Beren  Strass"^ — went  &  dined  there  —  rode  before  &  after 
dinner. 

Friday  l^^  June  Trying  to  get  settled,  in  my  new  apartments  —  find 
them  very  hot  —  being  exposed  all  the  afternoon  to  the  Sun.  Took  a  ride 
in  the  evening  to  Charlottenburg  —  Two  of  the  Miss  Browns  gone  to  stay 
there  —  The  rest  go  tomorrow. 

Satur  2^  Very  hot  weather  —  Rode  in  the  even^  to  Charlotten^  —  Met 
the  young  Countess  Briihls  there  waiting  the  arrival  of  the  Browns,  who  came 
out  shortly  —  Heard  from  Countess  Mary  Bruhl  ^  that  a  M^  Pirponchet  had 
arrived  and  entered  the  prussian  service  here,  and  that  he  was  quartered  at 
Charlottenburg,  as  a  subaltern  in  the  garde  du  corps. 

Sun  3<^     J.  O.  A[dams]  dined  out  to  day;  stayed  &  dined  with  M"  A[dams] 

and  in  the  evening  went  on  my  nag  to  Charlott met  there  M'  Richards 

for  the  first  time  —  M.  Constantini  the  Italian  master  —  the  Briihl's  &^^ 

Mond  4*''  M""  &  M""^  A[dams]  went  to  the  princess  Henry's  &  self  to 
Chariot^    The  Browns  &  Briihls  as  usual. 

Tuesd  5*^  Up  this  morning  at  4  o'Clock;  took  a  walk  in  the  park  and 
afterwards  a  ride  —  Gained  nothing  by  my  early  rising,  as  was  obliged  to 
sleep  in  the  middle  of  the  day  —  Passed  the  ev^  [evening]  at  Bellevue,  Chateau 
Ferdinand  —  Walk  in  the  garden  with  a  Swedish  Count  de  Thune,  whom  I 
never  saw  before,  but  who  was  very  chatty —  Made  a  party  of  whist  with  him, 
M""  de  Grovestein  a  Dutch  gentleman  &  Madmoiselle  [blank  space]  terriblement 
laide^ — Came  off  as  the  company  went  to  supper. 

Wed  6^^  Made  up  for  lost  time  by  sleeping  till  9  —  which  is  two  hours 
too  late,  at  least.  Ev^  Casino  &  afterwards  a  ride  —  steered  clear  of  Charlot- 
tenburg for  once. 

Thursday  7*^  Writing  very  closely  till  dinner  time.  Ev^  at  a  Ball  given 
by  M""  Cohen  ^  to  the  beautiful  Miss  Arnstein  a  Jewess  from  Vienna  —  Com- 
pany not  too  large  and  the  Ball  Room  spacious,  but  the  weather  very  hot  ■ — 
Danced  with  M"  Hesse  Miss  Frederica  Zeinert  &  M"  Miller  —  At  supper 
placed  next  M.  Zeinert  &  made  her  acquaintance  Company  chiefly  foreigners 
&  strangers  —  French  &  Swedish  Colony  —  English  &  Dutchmen  rather 
numerous  —  M^  Jaret  a  boy  traveller,  quite  a  brute  in  behavior  —  Broke  up 
at  3. 


1  The  well-known  Baroness  Riedesel,  wife  of  Baron  Friedrich  Adolph  von  Riedesel. 
'■*  Perhaps  the  daughter  of  Friedrich  Georg  von  Kail. 

s  Frau   von   Bergh  was  a   sister  of   Eleonore,   Countess  von   Neal   and   was   "Hofdame"   to   the   Prin- 
cess Heinrich. 

*  Behrenstrasse. 

5  Maria  Sophia  von  Briihl,  daughter  of  Count  Karl  Adolph  von  Briihl  and  his  wife  Sophia  Gomm. 

*  Frightfully  homely. 

'  Member  of  the  rich  Jewish  banking  house  of  Cohn  at  Berlin. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  19 

Frid  8"*  Up  very  late  this  morning  and  did  little  business  all  day  — 
Casino. 

Satur  9'^  At  home  till  even^ —  then  rode  to  Chariot^ —  saw  the  Brown's. 
Called  on  Perponchet  &  met  with  him  Mess"  Fagel,  Borrele,  Grovestein,  and 
another  Dutchman  —  who  all  came  to  town  in  a  waggon  —  P[erponchet]  rode 
on  horseback  —  talked  over  old  affairs  and  learnt  several  incidents  more  or 
less  scandalous  of  our  Hague  acquaintance. 

Sund  lO*'^  Rode  out  with  D*"  &  W[illiam]  Brown  to  dine  at  Chariot^  with 
them  —  Met  M""  Cohen  &  family  there,  afternoon  called  on  Pirponchet  at 
the  Guard,  found  him  on  duty  —  He  is  Jungcr  in  the  garde  du  corps  —  but 
expects  an  Officers  grade  in  a  few  weeks,  from  a  new  organization  to  take 
place  in  the  Regiment.     Ref^  home  at  10. 

Mond  11*''  Rode  before  dinner  —  Ev^  presented  at  the  Court  of  the 
Princess  Henry  ^  for  the  first  time  —  she  is  a  very  antique  piece  of  furniture 
as  are  most  of  the  female  Courtiers  whom  I  saw  there  —  they  somewhat 
resemble  as  many  Chinese  Mandarine  figures;  the  palsied  head  &  hand  —  the 
tottering  knee  &  the  trembling  voice,  bespeak  age  &  infirmity,  which  all  the 
glare  of  rouge  or  the  lustre  of  jewels  cannot  conceal. 

Came  off  directly  after  the  Princess  was  seated  at  her  partie  —  Went 
to  Casino  —  passed  the  even^  &  supped  there. 

Tuesd  12'*^  Passed  the  evening  at  Prince  Ferdinands  —  Played  with 
Count  Wartensleben  ^  &  others  whom  I  knew  not,  lost  a  great  deal  of  money 
at  the  infernal  game  of  whist.    Came  home  before  supper. 

Wed  13*^  Went  towards  2  o'Clock  &  took  a  solitary  ride  —  Ev^  rode 
to  Charlottenburg  with  B[rown]  Jun"". 

Thurs  14-^'^  Rode  with  B[rown]  Jun""  in  a  new  direction  —  came  at  length 
to  Charlottenburg,  but  only  to  the  gate. 

Friday  15  Began  Arschenholtz  [sic]  history  of  the  7  years  war  in  Ger- 
man^ Day  as  usual  —  rode  to  Ch^  [Charlottenburg]  met  J  arret  a  proper  John, 
rode  home  with  him. 

Satur  16.  After  dinner  at  Casino,  met  Jaret  &  M  de  Brisac  —  rode  after- 
wards to   Cha [Charlottenburg]   with  B[rown]   round  by  the   Artillery 

Barracks.     Supp'd  there. 

Sund  17  Short  walk  before  dinner  —  Ev^  rode  out  with  D""  B[rown]  to 
Charl^.  Met  the  Baron  Alvensleben  "*  coming  away  with  M.  Richards  —  The 
Briihl's  there  —  Supp'd. 

Mon  18.  After  dinner  at  Casino  —  Jaret  —  Billds  [Billiards]  with 
Novikof  f  —  at  12  N'  wth  m'  n  —  gh  b  —  r v  —  a  —  v}   ■ 

Tues  19  Rose  at  6>4  and  went  to  see  the  Artillery  exercise  —  very 
accurate  in  their  fire  —  Ev^  took  a  solitary  ride. 

Wed  20     Rode  in  the  afternoon  to  Charlottenburg. 


1  She  was  a  princess  of  Hesse-Cassel  and  about  seventy  years  old. — Adams,  J.   Q.     Memoirs,  I:   209. 

2  He  was  perhaps  Count   Friedrich   Ludwig  von   Wartensleben   who   married   Anna   Auguste,   Countess 
von  Fleming. 

»Archenholz,    Tohann   Wilhelm  von.      Geschichte   des  siehenjdhvigen   Krieges   in   Deutschland  von   1756 
bis  1763.     Mannheim,  1793.     2  vols.       8°. 

*  Count  Philip  Karl  von  Alvensleben. 
°  With  my  neighbor  vis-a-vis. 


20  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Thurs  21.     Stopp'd  a  little  time  at  Casino,  rode  afterwards. 

Frid  22  Afternoon  at  Casino  —  Billds  [Billiards]  with  D'Orville,  Novi- 
koff  &  Jarrat;  supp'd  there. 

Satur  23  Letters  from  America  to  the  7^^  May  —  Ev^  rode  to  Ch^ 
[Charlottenburg]. 

Simd  24  Busy  times  with  me,  writing  constantly  —  Casino  afternoon 
met  Littichau,  returned  from  the  Country. 

Mon  25.  Rode  before  &  after  dinner  —  A  company  from  Charlotte  of 
the  Browns,  Bruhls  &  Pirponchet  made  a  ride  of  some  length,  on  the  way  to 
Spandau,  very  fine  view  of  the  Spree. 

Tuesday  26     Writing  all  day  —  Rode  at  night. 

Wednes.  27  Rode  afternoon  to  Pancho,^  a  small  village  about  2^  miles 
from  Berlin. 

Thursd  28     Past  the  day  as  usual. 

Frid  29     Took  a  ride  towards  night. 

Satur  30     Walk  towards  night,  met  B[rown]  Jun  &  Jarrat. 

Sund  the  P*^  July  After  dinner  at  Charlottenburg  —  grow  vastly  inti- 
mate there  without  knowing  it  myself  —  Jarrat  smoaked  me  &  tried  hard  to 
be  quizical,  but  he  did  not  succeed  —  took  a  ride  near  Spandau. 

Mond  2^  After  dinner  at  Casino  —  supp'd  there;  came  home  after  the 
rain  ceased  &  found  myself  quite  ill. 

Tuesd  3^^  Passed  a  bad  night,  feverish  &  know  not  why  —  not  well,  but 
took  a  ride  to  drive  off  the  bluedevils,  to  Chariot^  came  home  a  little  better.^ 

Wed  4*^  Somewhat  better  to  day  —  Dined  at  home  and  remembered 
the  day;  a  very  sober  4*^  however  —  afternoon  at  Casino. 

Thursd  5**^  J  Q  A[dams]  had  his  audience  of  reception  to  day  at  Char- 
lottenburg.^ M.  Citoyen  Sieyes  likewise  had  his.  We  dined  at  a  Country 
seat  of  M''  Schickler  at  a  villiage  called  Strahlo  ^ —  Company  numerous  and  all 
strangers  —  Mad""^  Kraie  of  Leipsig  was  the  most  interesting  lady,  though 
there  were  several  others;  one  who  is  a  widdowed  virgin,  very  rich. 

Frid  6*''  At  9  this  morning  went  by  invitation  to  the  pallace  ^  to  see  the 
ceremony  of  the  homage  or  oath  of  allegiance  taken  by  the  people  —  The 
burgers  from  different  parts  of  the  Country  and  deputies  from  the  several 
States  assembled  &  took  the  oath  &'=^    About  70,  or  80,000  people  were  collected 


^  Pankow. 

2  J.  O.  Adams  was  informed  on  this  day  by  Count  von  Finckenstein  that  the  king  "had  fixed  on 
Thursday  [July  Sth]  at  half -past  ten  in  the  forenoon"  to  give  him  an  audience  for  the  delivery  of  his  letters 
of  credence. — -Memoirs,  I:   218. 

^J.  Q.  Adams  says  that  he  "entered  the  palace  as  the  clock  struck  half-past  ten,"  and  adds:  "Three 
other  Ministers  were  appointed  at  the  same  time  —  the  new  French  Minister  Sieyes,  the  Comte  de  Schall, 
from  the  Elector  of  Bavaria,  and  the  Commandeur  de  Maisonneuve,  from  Malta."  After  his  interview  with 
the  king,  Adams  went  to  arrange  for  an  audience  with  the  queen,  whereupon  he  returned  to  Berlin  "and  soon 
after  went  out  to  dine  with  Mr.  Schickler,  at  Strahlau,  about  three  English  miles  from  Berlin,"  on  the  river 
Spree.     There  were  about  thirty-five  persons  at  table,   mostly  strangers  to  the  Adamses. — Memoirs,   I:   219. 

*  The  village  of  Stralau. 

5  The  events  of  this  ceremony  are  described  by  J.  Q.  Adams,  thus:  "Between  nine  and  ten  this  morning 
went  to  the  royal  palace,  into  the  hall  called  the  White  Hall,  on  the  third  story.  We  were  early.  At  about 
ten  the  King  went  in  procession  with  his  Generals  and  Ministers  to  the  Dom  Church,  and  heard  a  sermon. 
At  about  twelve  he  returned,  escorted  as  before,  entered  the  hall,  and  ascended  a  throne  prepared  in  it  for 
him.  .  .  In  a  box  at  the  right,  all  the  foreign  Ministers  and  their  Secretaries.  .  .  The  Minister  de  Reck  began 
by  a  speech  addressed  to  the  deputies,  which  was  answered  by  the  president  of  the  deputation,  Arnim  von 
Suckow."  —  A/^)"0!>.j,    I:    219-220;    also    Writings,    ed.    by   Ford,   vol.    II:    332-335. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  21 

as  Spectators  —  The  Diplomacy  &  strangers  were  admitted  to  see  the  homage 
of  the  deputies  —  Several  addresses  were  made;  one  by  Minister  de  Reck  ^ — 
which  was  answered  by  the  President  of  the  deputation  Arnim.  They  were 
said  to  be  very  loyal.     Afternoon  at  Charlottenburg  &''^ 

Citizen  Sieyes  &  Secretary  Otto^  were  present  at  the  ceremony,  and 
appeared  to  have  all  eyes  turned  upon  them.  The  deputies  &'^^  were  assembled 
in  the  White  Hall  of  the  palace  —  His  Majesty  came  in,  preceded  by  the 
Ministers  of  State  &  followed  by  the  young  Princes  Si"^  He  retired  after  the 
business  was  over  in  the  same  order.  While  the  addresses  were  reading  the 
king  stood  on  his  throne  and  seemed  to  be  perfectly  composed  —  The  oath 
of  homage  was  repeated  by  the  deputies  with  a  small  display  of  fervor,  but 
in  general  it  was  a  vapid  &  insipid  spectacle,  at  least  to  an  American. 

Satur  7'^  Ball  this  evening  at  Court ;^  went  &  danced  with  Countess  M. 
Briihl  &  Mile  de  Molck  "* —  passed  a  tolerable  pleasant  time  —  stayed  supper. 

Sund  8'^  Concert  &  Te  Deum  at  the  Opera  House;  went  for  the  sake 
of  seeing  the  building;  found  it  handsome  —  no  relish  for  the  music  —  D"" 
Brown  &  family  there  —  went  afterwards  to  Chariot^  with  them,  &  Jarrett, 
quite  cross  about  my  horse,  which  has  undertaken  to  be  wicked  &  unmanage- 
able.    Took  a  ride  before  dinner  —  adventure  of  the  raspberries  &'^^ 

Mond  9*^  Rode  alone  to  Charl^  on  the  right  side  of  the  River  —  Horse 
went  very  quiet. 

Tuesd  lO**"  Took  a  long  ride  on  the  Pottsdam  road,  and  had  a  fresh  battle 
with  my  horse. 

Wed.  11     Ride  afternoon  Ch^  —  Jarrett  there. 

Thurs  12  Rode  with  Billy  Brown  to  Ch^  and  went  upon  the  River  with 
him  in  his  boat. 

Frid  13     Afternoon  at  Ch^  M"  Adams  there. 

Satur  14  At  Casino  met  Jarrett  &  M""  Kent,^  his  traveling  Tutor;  went 
&  drank  tea  with  them  at  their  lodgings. 

Sun  15     Went  to  Charl^  on  the  right  side  of  the  River  made  a  long  ride. 

Mon  16  To  Ch^  with  young  Brown;  the  D""  accompanied  us  thence  to 
Pi^ickelsdorf  ^  an  island  in  the  River  Havel  about  4  m.  e7  from  Ch^  where  we 
met  the  young  ladies  &  M  Perponcher.  The  situation  very  pleasant,  commands 
a  view  of  the  River  and  the  town  of  Spandau. 

The  turnpike  began  to  day  on  the  Chariot^  road. 

Tues  17.  M"  A[dams]  extremely  ill  last  night  ^ — sent  for  D''  Brown 
from  Ch^  He  thinks  she  must  miscarry  —  poor  little  woman;  how  she  suffers ! 
Matrimony  these  are  thy  fruits !     Bitter  Bitter,  M"  Brown  came  to  see  her. 

1  Eberhard  Friedrich  Christopli  Ludwig  von  der  Recke.     He  died  in  1816. 

2  He  was  secretary  to  the  French  legation. 

'  Just  before  the  court  ball,  J.  Q.  Adams  was  given  an  audience  by  the  queen.  The  ball  was  held 
in  the  ballroom  or  "White  Hall,"  where  the  homage  had  been  paid  the  king  on  the  preceding  day.  — 
Memoirs,   I:   221. 

*  Moltke. 

^  Kent   was  a   clergyman,   who   accompanied   Jarrett   upon   his  travels.     The   latter   seems   to   have  been 
the  son  of  a  wealthy  Jamaica  planter.  —  Adams,  J.   Q.     Memoirs,  I:  221. 
'  Pichelsdorf. 
'  English  miles. 

*  Mrs.  John  Quincy  Adams  was  Louisa  Catherine  Johnson,  second  daughter  of  Joshua  and  Catherine 
Johnson.  She  was  married  to  Adams  on  July  26,  1797,  in  the  church  of  the  parish  of  AH  Hallows  Barking, 
London. — Memoirs,  I:   199.     Her  father  was  United  States  Consul  at  London. 


22  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Ev^  at  Bellevue  —  Princess  &*^^  very  inquisitive  concerning  M"  A[dams] 
told  them  all  I  knew  &  more  too.  Party  with  Geertz,^  Grovestein  &  two  other 
Gent"  unknown  one  of  them  said  to  be  M.  de  Haagen^ — came  off  before 
supper. 

Wed  IS*'*  M"  A[dams]  yet  very  ill;  went  to  Charl^  in  the  evening.  Dined 
at  D""  B[rown]S  in  town;  walk  in  the  park  before  dinner. 

Thurs  19     Called  at  Casino;  M""  J[arrett]  &  K[ent]  —  Ev^  at  Chariot^ 

Frid  20     M"  A[dams]  somewhat  better. 

Satur  21     Day  as  usual. 

Sund  22     Afternoon  took  a  cart  &  went  with  Jarrett  to  Ch^. 

Mon  23  Rode  to  Ch^  by  the  way  of  Tempelhof,  where  there  was  a  larger 
collection  of  people,  met  to  keep  harvest  home^  Mess"  K[ent]  &  J[arrett]  at 
D^  B[row]ns.  Letters  from  home  of  12  June  —  unpleasant  news  for  my 
brother.'* 

Tues  24  Called  on  J[arrett]  after  dinner  and  went  with  him  to  Casino  — 
Bill'ds  [Billiards]  —  returned  &  took  tea  at  his  lodgings. 

Wed  25     Ride  towards  night. 

Thurs  26  Heard  of  M''  Childs  an  American  gentleman  being  at  V[ille] 
de  P[aris]  went  &  dined  there;  conversation  with  M  de  Quast  —  Introduced 
myself  to  C[hilds]  and  attended  him  to  see  my  brother  —  after  tea  a  walk. 

Frid  27  Before  dinner  at  Casino  —  Jarrett  —  M""  Childs  D^  &  W" 
Brown  &  M'"  Richard  dined  with  us.  Rode  after  with  W°  to  Poeckelsdorf,^ 
where  we  met  the  B[row]n  &  B[ruh]l  families;  Perponcher  &  Jarrett.  To  me 
not  a  pleasant  party. 

Satur  28     Rode  towards  night  to  Ch^  supped  there. 

Sund  29  Made  arrangements  for  M""  Childs  to  go  with  Mess"  Kent  & 
Jarrett  to  Ch^ —  rode  out  horseback  —  pleasant  dinner  14  persons  —  passed 
the  evening  there.  Rode  home  with  D^  Brown.  Agreed  to  take  lesson  on 
tuesday  in  fencing,  of  a  french  soldier,  in  Pr[ussian]  service. 

Mond  30.  Casino  met  Jar*  afternoon  rode  with  W"  Brown  to  Pancho, 
to  visit  Mile  Bishoffswerder  —  not  home  —  went  through  Shoenhausen  to 
Ch^^ — Miss  B[rown]  observes  —  "So  I  hear  you  are  going  away?  Alas  yes! 
No  help  f or't.     To  part  from  her  will  cost  a  pang  —  But  — 

Fencing  teacher  disappointed  me. 

Tuesd  31  Towards  Ev^  rode  out  with  W°  Brown  to  Charlottenburg;  D'" 
Br:  was  sent  for  by  the  Queen  —  W"  &  self  rode  express,  20  minutes  to  town. 

Wednes  the  P*  of  August.  Took  first  lesson  in  fencing  —  Went  out  and 
took  a  bath  in  the  river,  above  the  king's  garden  —  first  time  I  have  bathed 
for  two  or  three  years  in  a  cold  bath.  Rode  to  town  with  D""  B[row]n  — 
pleasant  conversation. 


1  Gorz. 

^  Correctly  vom  Hagen. 
»  Erntefest. 

*  Evidently   referring  to   the   opposition   in   Congress  to   the  confirmation   of  Adams   as   minister  pleni- 
potentiary at  Berlin. 
5  Pichelsdorf. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  23 

Thurs  2,  Bathed  again  this  even^ — appearance  of  a  very  heavy  storm 
came  up,  and  it  grew  so  extremely  dark  that  I  was  persuaded  to  stay  the  night 
at  Ch^  —  This  morn^  2  lesson  in  fencing. 

Frid  3  Up  at  4^  &  off  at  5^  with  W"" — fine  morning  —  lesson  in 
german,  but  nodded  very  soon  over  it  —  Out  again  at  night  with  B[rown]  Jun*" 
Company  —  M''  Hamilton  an  English  Gentleman  just  arrived  —  pleasant 
evening, 

Saturd  4  Dined  at  V[ille]  de  Paris;  weather  excessively  hot  —  M*"  Childs 
wanted  me  to  make  a  party  to  Freyenwald  with  him  &  two  Italian's,  strangers 
to  both  of  us  —  hesitated  whether  I  should  go  or  not,  and  finally  concluded 
I  would  not.  Wrote  him  a  note  to  that  effect.  Passed  the  even^  and  supp'd 
at  Bellevue  walked  in  the  garden  with  Baron  Geertz  &  an  officer  of  the  Gens 
d'armes  —  M""  Sloper  an  Englishman  was  there  and  was  very  chatty  —  seems 
to  be  a  favorite  of  P.  R.  &  A  —  rather  a  rattler,  but  impudent  enough  to  bear 
himself  through.    Walked  home  with  him. 

Sund  5.  Fine  shower  blew  up  about  11  o'Clock,  which  cleared  the  air 
&  lay'd  the  dust  —  considerable  thunder  —  the  weather  has  been  intensely 
hot  during  the  past  week,  this  shower  is  very  grateful  —  3^  lesson  this  morn^. 

Mon  6  At  home  the  morning — Sat  off  for  Pottsdam  at  }i  5.  in 
company  with  W"  Brown  ^ —  M""  &  M"  A[dams]  Miss  I[sabella]  Brown  &  M"" 
Childs  were  in  one  carriage  &  Mess"  Kent,  Jarrat  &  Hamilton  in  another. 
Stopped  %  an  hour  at  Zeilendorf^  and  went  the  other  stage,  half  way  in 
}i  hour;  arrived  at  Henschels  Inn  ^  an  hour  sooner  than  the  carriages  —  Made 
the  necessary  arrangements  for  the  night,  Supp'd  &  passed  a  pleasant  evening. 
Slept  in  a  room  with  B" 

Tues  7.  Our  whole  company  sat  out  in  Carriages  to  visit  the  different 
palaces  &'^^  at  11  o'Clock  - —  Stopped  V^  at  the  gallery  of  Paintings  which  took 
us  nearly  two  hours  to  go  through  —  thence  to  Sans  Souci  '^  palace  the  former 
residence  of  Fred:  II  —  saw  his  library  &  study  with  the  table  on  which  he 
used  to  write  —  The  appartments  generally  handsome;  some  of  them 
elegant  —  paintings  scattered  about  in  many  of  them  —  Saw  the  grave  stone's 
of  11  dogs,  which  belonged  to  old  Fritz  —  the  Monarch  himself  should  have 
been  buryed  by  their  side,  if  his  dying  injunction  has  been  obeyed  —  from 
hence  we  proceeded  to  a  prospect  or  Summer  house,  which  commands  a  very 
extensive  view  of  the  Town  of  P[Otsdam]  the  River  Havel  &  the  adjacent 
Country  —  Artificial  ruins  at  some  distance  —  in  the  midst  of  a  thick  copse 
of  trees  produce  a  pleasant  effect.  Next  to  the  New  Palace,^  built  by  Fr  II 
immediately  at  the  close  of  his  7  years  war  —  very  shabby  externally,  resem- 
bling more  an  hospital  than  a  palace  —  Some  handsome  rooms  —  spacious  but 
not  elegant  —  Thence  to  the  Marble  Palace  ^  situated  upon  the  River  —  Built 


1  Thomas  B.  Adams  and  William  Brown  went  on  horseback.  It  was  "about  five  in  the  afternoon." 
Hamilton  was  "a  young  man,  going  to  pass  some  time  at  Gottingen."  —  Adams,  J.  Q.     Memoirs,  I:  221. 

2  Zehlendorf. 

»This  "Gasthaus"  was  known  as  the  Sign  of  the  Hermit.  On  October  10,  1799,  J.  Q.  Adams  lodged 
there. — Memoirs,    I:    239. 

*  Sans  Souci,  the  celebrated  palace  at  Potsdam  created  by  Frederick  the  Great  after  the  Silesian  war, 
as  a  place  of  repose.     It  was  built  by  the  architect  Knobelsdorf,   1745-1747. 

=  This  palace  was  erected  in  the  style  of  Palladio  by  order  of  Frederick  the  Great,  1764-1769. 

«  The   Marmorpalais  built   for   Friedrich  Wilhelm   II  and  finished  by   Friedrich  Wilhelm   IV. 


24  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

on  a  small  scale  but  wonderfully  neat  &  rich  —  the  grotto  ^  &  the  hermitage 
belonging  to  this  palace  &  the  grounds  about  it  are  worth  seeing  more  than 
anything  else  —  Here  our  labors  came  to  an  end,  and  we  returned  to  town 
about  5  o'clock  heartily  fatigued  &  very  hungry.^ 

After  dinner  young  B[rown]  sat  off  for  Charlottenburg  &  I  attended  his 
sister  to  visit  Count  &  Countess  Luzey  an  old  acquaintance  of  my  father  — 
The  remainder  of  even^  at  home. 

Wed  8  Walked  with  the  ladies  to  see  the  Soldiers  manoeuvre  —  well 
performed  —  they  are  learning  a  new  exercise;  or  a  trifling  variation  from  the 
old,  which  is  rather  vexatious  to  them  because  it  is  not  thought  to  be  an 
improvement  —  Weather  very  warm  —  Took  a  game  of  Bill'ds  [Billiards]  with 
M""  Childs  —  A  shower  attended  with  thunder  came  on  while  we  were  out  & 
cooled  the  air  —  Dined  at  3,  and  went  afterwards  to  see  the  manufactory  of 
arms  —  saw  the  operation  of  putting  in  a  britch  pin  performed  &  boring  a 
touch-hole  —  the  barrels  are  made  at  Spandau  —  The  specimens  of  guns, 
which  we  saw  are  very  heavy  weighing  upon  an  average —  12  to  13  pounds 
weight  —  well  made  —  they  cost  about  a  guinea  a  piece. 

Company  concluded  to  stay  the  night  —  game  of  whist. 

Thurs  9  Settled  our  bill  —  (a  stout  one)  and  prepared  for  being  off  — 
Took  leave  of  Mess""^  Jarret  &  Kent  &  at  11  got  under  weigh  for  town  ■ — 
rode  slowly  the  first  stage,  but  found  it  extravagantly  hot.  Stopped  >4  an 
hour  at  Zeilendorf  ^  &  made  our  servant  ride  my  horse  —  the  second  stage  — 
Six  persons  in  my  brothers  Carriage  —  Reached  home  at  2  —  went  and 
dined  with  Childs  at  the  V[ille]  de  P[aris]  and  after  dinner  went  with  him  & 
three  other  persons  to  the  Royal  Accademy  of  Sciences,  presided  by  the 
Marquis  de  Luchesini,"^  and  heard  the  reading  of  two  discourses  —  One  his- 
torical—  the  other  de  I'influence  des  femme  sur  les  Gouvernemens  et  les 
Etats  —  by  M.  le  vi-comte  de  Goyon  a  f  rench  Emigrant  —  was  highly  pleased 
with  it  —  M''  Erman  pronounced  the  first  —  Called  at  D""  Browns  &  drank  tea 
—  M^  Hamilton  there  —  went  afterwards  with  him  to  the  Casino. 

Frid  10  At  home  till  6>4 — then  went  to  Casino  with  M^  Childs  — 
Billds  [Billiards]  —  Ev^  tea  &  cards  at  Count  Zinzindorfs  —  Whist  with  his 
Excellency  the  ci-devant  Avoyer  Steiger^  of  Berne  —  La  Barron  de  Reck  & 
M""  de  Grovestein  —  Lost  —  Come  home  &  found  the  young  Countess  Neal  at 
our  house. 

Satur  11  Made  up  my  mind  to  accompany  M""  Childs  to  Dresden.  Went 
out  to  Charlottenburg,  found  Miss  F  Briihl  there;  walk  on  the  terrass  until 
the  family  returned  —  Supped  and  had  a  very  dark  &  dangerous  ride  home 
on  account  of  the  road. 


1  The  quaint  house  on  the  Spree,  built  in  1650  by  Memhardt. 

2  J.   Q.  Adams  gives  some  observations  concerning  the  visit  that  are  complementary  to  this  account.  — 
Memoirs,  I:  221-222. 

*  Zehlendorf. 

*  Hieronymus   (or  Girolamo),  Marchese  von  Lucchesini,  b.   1752;  d.   1825.     He  was  of  an  old  patrician 
house  of  Lucca  and  came  to  Prussia  in  1780. 

=  He    had    been    a    Swiss    magistrate    and    belonged    to    the    old    patrician    house    of    Steiger,    of    Bern, 
Switzerland. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  25 

Sund  12  Mess"  Childs  &  Hamilton  dined  with  us  —  Went  to  Charlotten- 
burg  &  took  leave  of  the  family.    Returned  early  &  packed  up  my  trunk. 

Mond  13  Sent  off  my  trunk  to  the  V[ille]  de  Paris  and  mounted  my  horse 
at  9  o'clock  —  sat  off  from  the  V[ille]  de  P[aris]  at  10^  —  passed  the  Carrier 
without  question.  Rode  about  4  Eng  miles  &  then  took  to  the  carriage  with 
Childs  on  ace*  of  the  intense  heat  —  Reached  first  stage  3  G.  Miles  Mittehvalde  ^ 
between  1  &  2  o'Clock;  bought  a  cloth  &  halter  for  my  horse  &  proceeded 
about  3  for  Baruth  3  miles  —  at  neither  of  these  places  could  any  Oats  be  had 
for  my  horse  —  nothing  but  chopp't  straw  &  rye,  of  which  he  would  scarcely 
eat  any  —  The  Post  Master  at  this  Stage  was  a  brute  —  a  hog.  Made  the 
next  stage  to  Luckau  3  miles,  at  night  &  arrived  at  a  pretty  good  Inn  or  Wirtz- 
haiis  about  6  o'Clock  on 

Tues  14     Found  here  some  oats  for  my  horse;  rubb'd  him  down  myself 

—  saw  him  fed  &'^^ —  sat  off  with  three  horses  hence,  &  with  a  surly,  grumbling 
postilion  Schwager^  because  we  diminished  the  number  of  our  horses  —  made 
the  next  stage  2  miles  to  Sonnenwalde  in  4  j^  hours  —  dined  at  the  tavern 
kept  by  a  civil  intelligent  man  in  comparison.  Off  at  2  ^^  o'Clock  for  Elster- 
werder^  3  miles  —  long  stage;  very  hot,  and  my  horse  very  troublesome  — 
got  in  at  8  ^,  and  took  measures  with  the  post  Master,  a  clever  fellow,  for 
leaving  my  horse  with  him  until  Thursday  —  made  a  bargain  to  have  him 
sent  on  —  took  a  cold  cut  —  &  off  at  9  ^  for  Grossen  Hayn  2  miles,  which 
we  came  to  at  1  in  the  morn^ —  just  as  a  violent  thunder  gust  came  on  —  laid 
myself  down  upon  a  sopha  &  slept  soundly  until  the  horses  were  ready  to  start 

—  off  at  2  j^  and  made  this  stage  in  four  hours;  good  roads  and  good  horses  — 
good  natured  postilion.  4  miles  and  yet  by  much  the  shortest  stage  we  have  had. 

Wed  15  As  we  approached  the  town  of  Dresden,  which  is  situated  at 
the  foot  of  a  long  hill,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  banks  of  the 
Elbe  —  the  fortress  of  Konigstein  is  a  very  conspicious  object  —  the  grounds 
in  the  neighborhood  well  cultivated  &  interspersed  with  vineyards  —  arrived 
about  6  ^  at  the  gates,  &  at  the  Hotel  de  Baviere  at  7.  The  rooms  &  chambers 
all  full,  but  as  a  favor  to  M''  Childs  the  people  offered  him  a  small  room  for 
a  temporary  accommodation,  which  we  accepted.  Breakfasted  —  dressed  &'^* 
— •  M""  C[hilds]  heard  that  some  of  his  acquaintance  were  just  gone  on  a  party 
to  Freybourg  &  he  sat  off  in  about  2  hours  from  our  arrival  to  join  them. 
Dined  at  Table  d'hote  with  three  or  four  gentlemen  —  strangers  —  walked 
a  little  afterwards  &  then  came  home  slept  most  of  the  afternoon.  Ev^  rec'^ 
a  call  from  M""  Kent,  who  arrived  about  5  this  evening,  &  could  with  much 
difficulty  find  lodgings  —  passed  an  hour  very  pleasantly  —  slept  in  a  nut- 
shell of  a  room,  but  very  comfortably  —  weather  much  cooler. 

Thurs  16  Called  after  breakfast  upon  Mess"  Kent  &  Jarrett  sauntered 
about  till  dinner  time;  my  horse  arrived  about  11  o'Clock  —  got  a  stable  for 
him  —  dined  at  T[able]  d'h[6te]  again  with  K[ent]  &  J[arrett]  —   &  the  same 

^  Mittenwalde. 

-  These  terms  are  synonymous.  "To  detail  the  cheating  tricks  and  impertinence  of  wagenmeisters, 
schwagers,  Sac,  would  be  a  long  and  thankless  task."  —  Reeve,  Henry.  Journal  of  a  Residence  at  Vienna  and 
Berlin  in  1805-6,  p.  203. 

*  Elsterwerda. 


26  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

gentlemen  as  I  met  before  —  conversed  freely  with  them  —  Afternoon  billds 
[billiards]  with  J[arrett]  walk  on  the  Terrass  upon  the  River,  formerly  the 
gardens  belonging  to  Count  Briihl's  summer  house  which  was  razed  by  the 
soldiers  of  Fred:  II  after  taking  the  town.  It  commands  a  fine  prospect  of 
the  river  &  neighborhood.  Walk  after  on  the  Ramparts  &^^  &  then  to  the 
Neu  Stadt  across  the  long  15  arch  stone  bridge  —  &  by  the  Equestrian  Statue 
of  The  late  Elector,  Augustus  king  of  Poland  —  returned  &  took  tea  with 
K[ent]  &  J[arrett]. 

Frid  17  M*"  Childs  returned  last  night  &  lodged  in  a  chamber  contiguous 
to  me  —  called  on  him  this  morning  &  wrote  all  the  forenoon  —  Dined  at 
T[able]  d'h[6te]  —  &  after  dinner  went  to  see  the  public  library  &  collection  of 
porcelain  —  both  objects  of  curiosity;  rain  prevented  our  seeing  anything 
more  —  returned  &  passed  the  even^  at  my  chamber  with  the  rest  of  the 
gentlemen. 

Satur  18  Called  on  Mess"  K[ent]  &  J[arrett]  and  went  with  them  to  see 
the  Cabinet  of  Antiques  —  a  very  superb  collection,  and  contains  a  few»models 
which  for  beauty  &  elegance,  expression  &  grace,  carry  with  them  infallible 
proofs  of  their  origin  —  I  remarked  particularly  a  priestess  of  Diana  —  for 
drapery  &  expression  —  Three  figures  the  finding  of  which  first  occasioned 
the  discovery  of  the  Herculaneum  ^ —  One  of  them  a  female  figure  remark- 
able for  the  fineness  of  its  drapery  —  A  fragment  —  the  body  and  arm  of  a 
man,  most  exquisite  workmanship  —  Venus's  innumerable,  but  none  very 
good.  These  are  all  the  most  prominent  objects.  Several  young  men  were 
scattered  about  the  gallery,  taking  sketches  as  Scholars. 

Returned  &  dined  at  T[able]  d  h[6te].  afterwards  took  a  ride  out  towards 
the  baths  —  M*"  Elliot  called  &  offered  to  present  me  at  Court  to  morrow  if 
I  liked  —  declined —  Walk  towards  night  to  see  the  baths —  Passed  Ev^ 
at  home. 

Sund  19  Called  upon  Childs  &  went  with  him  to  the  parade  —  saw  a  part 
of  the  regiment  of  the  Electors  guards  —  went  thence  to  the  catholic  church 
and  heard  the  famous  music  —  The  Elector,  Electress  &  daughter  —  Princes 
Anthony  &  Maximilian  —  &  the  Electors  Sister,  Princess  Elizabeth  were 
present —  Walk  afterwards  —  dined  at  Table  d'hote  and  went  afterwards 
to  the  Lincks-bath  where  we  met  a  collection  of  the  ugliest  women  I  ever  saw  — 
Childs  agreed  to  meet  us  there  but  failed,  and  we  discovered  the  cause  of  it, 
which  gave  us  some  room  for  remark  —  Crossed  the  river  with  M""  Kent  and 
returned  to  his  lodgings. 

Mond  20  Sat  off  with  Messieurs  Kent  &  Jarrett  to  visit  the  Fortress 
of  Konigstein,  3  G  M.  from  Dresden  —  passed  through  Pyrna^  &  ordered 
dinner  there  —  overtook  on  the  road  a  Company  of  Poles  bound  on  the  same 
errand  as  ourselves;  reached  the  Fortress  at  10  ^  and  went  over  it;  heard 
the  interesting  particulars  of  its  history,  which  was  interpreted  to  us  by  one  of 
the  Polish  gentlemen;  made  acquaintance  with  them  &  found  them  very  clever 


^  These  three  statues  were  found  at  Herculaneum  in  1706. 
2  Pirna. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  27 

—  Lillienstein  a  rock  at  about  an  E  M  —  distance  from  the  Fortress  is  still 
higher,  but  more  accessable  —  The  Elbe  is  very  interesting  at  this  place,  and 
our  party  joined  an  equal  number  of  the  poles  to  descend  it  in  a  boat,  by  which 
we  had  a  fair  view  of  its  lofty  banks,  which  on  one  side  are  entirely  of  huge 
rocks  —  passed  the  ruins  of  two  robber  Castles  —  Dined  at  Pyrna  about  4  Yz 
and  took  leave  of  our  fellow  passengers,  whom  we  found  to  be  inhabitants  of 
Wilna  in  Lithuania,  one  of  them  D""  of  Medicine  a  very  intelligent  &  agreeable 
young  man.    Returned  by  9  to  Dresden. 

Tuesday  2P*  Went  with  K[ent]  &  J[arrett]  to  the  picture  gallery  both 
before  &  after  dinner  —  found  it  exceed  my  expectations  in  point  of  number 
&  arrangement,  but  not  in  the  quality  &  merit  of  the  paintings.  Walk  about 
town,  &  towards  night  took  a  ride  upon  my  horse  of  about  5  E.  M.  to  the  foot 
of  some  very  high  hills.     Returned  to  tea  at  K[ent]  &  J[arrett]S. 

Wed  22  Took  breakfast  with  Mess""^  K[ent]  &  J[arrett]  —  and  sat  off 
for  Tharand  a  valley  upon  the  banks  of  the  Weiseritz.  Stopped  at  a  tea  house 
for  M'".  Childs  to  get  breakfast  —  then  at  a  place  called  Potz-Chappel,  where 
we  mounted  a  hill  which  commands  a  fine  prospect  of  the  surrounding  Country. 
Passed  the  valley  of  Plauen  &  arrived  about  10  o'Clock  at  Tharand.  Ascended 
a  Mountain  upon  the  left  bank  of  the  River,  the  access  to  which  is  much 
facilitated  as  well  as  rendered  pleasant  by  a  foot  path  made  at  the  expence  of 
a  Company  who  frequent  the  place.  It  is  serpentine  &  extends  from  top  to 
bottom  with  seats  as  resting  places  at  convenient  distances.  We  were  joined  by 
M*"  C[hild]S  party  consisting  of  a  Russian  Lady  and  her  companion  M"" 
C[hild]S  friend  —  a  Russian  gentleman  &  a  son  of  the  Rus"  lady —  After 
dinner  we  visited  the  ruins  of  a  robber  Castle  and  ascended  the  Right  side 
of  the  river,  where  the  mountain  is  still  higher  than  the  other,  and  the  walk 
arranged  in  a  similar  style  —  A  buste  of  Gessner  the  poet  is  placed  at  the 
center  of  the  hill  and  a  small  pavillion  at  the  top.  The  view  from  hence  is  one 
of  the  finest  I  ever  saw.  Made  all  our  observations  from  the  summit  and 
as  soon  as  we  descended  prepared  to  be  off  for  Freyburg.  Took  leave  of  the 
company  at  5  and  after  a  rough  &  tiresome  ride  of  4  hours  arrived  at  the 
Golden  Star^  in  the  town  of  F[reybur]g. 

Thurs  23  Up  at  6  and  obtained  of  Mess"  Schmidt  &  Charpentier  — 
Directors  or  Overseers  of  the  mines,  the  usual  permit  for  seeing  the  works  and 
then  proceeded  to  the  Ciirfurst  or  Electors  mine  where  we  were  received  by  the 
head  man  or  superintendant,  and  after  equiping  ourselves  in  Miners  cloths  we 
took  our  departure  Jarrett  &  self  with  the  Conductor  to  visit  the  inmost  recesses 
of  the  subterranean  cells  —  We  descended  only  half  the  depth  of  the  mine 
250  Ells  or  500  feet  —  passed  through  the  veins  —  saw  the  workmen  employed 
and  reascended  to  light  in  about  two  hours  from  the  time  of  entry.  Saw  the 
machines  for  extracting  the  water  &  the  ore  and  the  several  processes  to  pre- 
pare the  ore  to  be  received  at  the  Smelting  or  Amalgamating  house  and  then 
went  to  see  it  there  in  its  several  stages  of  purification  &  separation,  but  for 
want  of  a  proper  interpreter  we  understood  very  little  of  the  process.    Returned 


28  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

to  Freyburg  to  dinner  and  at  5  o'Clock  sat  off  for  Dresden  where  we  arrived 
safely  at  10  5^. 

Frid  24  Rec'^  a  letter  from  my  brother  from  Berlin  enclosing  one  from 
M""  Pitcairn  —  Engaged  till  dinner  time  in  answering  J.  Q.  A[dam]S  letter,  and 
at  dinner  met  Mess'^^  Taylor  &  Bassett,  who  have  just  returned  from  a  tour 
through  Bohemia  —  After  dinner  went  to  see  the  Cabinet  of  natural  history, 
minerology  Si""^  at  which  we  passed  nearly  three  hours  —  Took  a  walk 
afterwards  with  Mess""®  Kent  &  Taylor  in  the  gardens  of  Prince  Anthony  and 
Moshinski  ^ —  the  latter  famous  as  having  been  chosen  by  the  K  of  P[russia] 
Fred  II  for  one  of  his  parrallells  —  some  of  the  works  are  still  visible,  indeed 
—  wherever  you  turn  your  eyes  in  the  neighborhood  of  this  town  there  are 
traces  of  this  Monarch  little  favorable  to  his  character  —  though  as  a  Con- 
queror he  might  exercise  severities,  yet  he  would  have  appeared  more  amiable 
to  posterity  had  he  exercised  more  forbearance.  Returned  and  took  tea  at 
M""  Kents  lodgings. 

Satur  25  Went  with  Mess"  K[ent],  J[arrett]  and  Foster,  a  young  English- 
man lately  arrived  to  see  the  Electors  hunting  seat  at  Moritzburg  —  2  G  M 
from  town.  The  weather  was  unfavorable  for  walking  and  we  therefore  lost 
in  a  great  degree  the  object  of  our  tour  —  Went  on  board  the  hrig  which  is 
moored  in  a  small  lake,  which  serves  as  a  fishing  pond  to  the  Elector.  The 
See  Shiff  as  she  is  called,  is  certainly  not  a  model  in  the  art  of  naval  architec- 
ture, but  the  Cabin  affords  a  shelter  from  the  Sun  &  rain  and  a  room  for 
the  Elector  and  his  suite  to  dine  in.  There  is  a  sort  of  palace  here  and  a  small 
chateau  arranged  by  the  Electors  favorite  Count  Marcolini  —  a  pheasantry 
and  pleasure  grounds,  which  the  wind  &  rain  prevented  our  seeing  to 
advantage  —  Dined  at  an  Inn  near  the  palace  where  we  met  two  Englishmen 
who  joined  at  their  own  solicitation,  our  mess  —  Returned  to  town  about  5  j^ 
little  satisfied  with  our  jaunt.  Drank  tea  &  passed  the  Ev^  with  K[ent]  & 
J[arrett]. 

Sund  26  Childs  called  on  me  —  went  together  to  see  the  Lutheran 
church  &  thence  to  the  Chappel,  where  I  saw  a  young  lady  from  Hamburg  ( Mile 
Vidal)  whom  I  had  seen  there  last  fall.  Called  on  M'"  Foster  at  the  Hotel  de 
Pologne  —  dined  at  T[able]  d'h[6te]  &  sat  next  Mons*"  de  Leg  ^ —  who  charged 
me  with  his  comp^  for  M  de  Posch  at  Berlin —  A  french-wine-merchant 
came  in  while  we  were  at  dinner  —  just  from  Prague  where  he  had  experienced 
some  embarassment  from  the  Custom-house  officers  on  ace*  of  suspicions 
entertained  against  him  &''^  M""  Basset  who  had  heard  a  little  of  the  history 
before,  said  that  the  man  was  a  little  equivocal,  perhaps.  His  appearance  is 
that  of  a  jolly  Bacchus  and  answers  very  well  to  his  trade.  After  dinner 
accompanied  Mess'^  Kent  &  Jarrett  to  Poelnitz  ^ —  crossed  the  River  upon  a 
sort  of  Pontoon  bridge  —  ascended  the  Boertzberg"*  a  very  high  hill,  which 
took  us  50  minutes  to  reach  its  top.     The  prospect  from  its  summit  is  very 


1  Evidently  of  the  house  of  Mosczenski,  also  Moschinski. 

2  Legge. 

3  Pilnitz. 

*  Borsberg  or  Porsberg. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  29 

extensive  and  in  perfectly  clear  sky  more  than  100  vilages  fall  under  the  eye; 
the  weather  was  unfortunately  rainy  and  obscure,  so  that  we  lost  the  best  part 
of  the  view,  though  we  saw  enough  to  convince  us  of  the  properties  it  really 
possesses.  Descended  by  a  route  not  levelled  like  the  usual  foot  path  &  less 
circuitous  —  The  Elector  who  principally  resides  here  in  Summer  takes  this 
walk  regularly  three  times  a  week.  Saw  the  Chateau  where  the  famous  con- 
ferences ^  were  held  between  the  Emperor  of  Germany  &  the  King  of 
Prussia —  Returned  to  town,  drank  tea  &  passed  the  evening  with  Mess" 
K[ent,]  J[arrett]  Basset  &  Taylor.    The  latter  set  off  tomorrow  for  Freyburg. 

Mond  27  Went  to  the  Diplomatic  Society  or  Casino  resembling  very 
much  ours  at  Berlin;  sauntered  till  dinner  time,  and  after  dinner,  went  to  see 
the  Green  Gewelbe  ^  or  Electoral  Treasure  of  Gold,  Silver  &  precious  stones  — 
marble  pearl  ^.""^  a  part  of  the  plate  used  at  the  ceremony  of  the  Coronation  of 
the  Emperor  of  Germany,  which  is  always  sent  for  that  purpose  to  Francfort  on 
the  Main  —  The  Elector  of  Saxony  as  Treasurer  of  the  Empire  has  the 
keeping  of  it.  We  were  dazzled  with  the  splendor  of  so  much  nominal  wealth 
in  so  small  a  compass.    Ev^  as  usual  —    Took  leave  of  my  friends. 

Tues  28  Up  at  6  and  after  paying  off  called  on  M''  Childs  to  take  leave. 
Off  at  a  little  before  9.  Took  the  Leipzig  road  by  way  of  a  change  &  after 
paying  the  toll,  discovered  my  error  —  struck  across  through  a  bye  road  &  soon 
got  into  the  right  one.  Weather  threatening  rain  &  actually  dropping  a  little. 
Jogg'd  on  to  Grossen  hayn  &  came  to  the  Inn  about  12  yi.  dined  —  fed  my 
horse  &  proceeded  at  2  ^4  to  Elsterwerda,  where  I  came  at  4  ;^  —  Post 
Master  tolerably  civil  &  the  old  hostler  very  much  so  —  The  post  arrived  with 
several  passengers  at  9  —  Claimed  my  seat  &  had  to  pay  Beer  Geld  ^  to  Postilion 
for  the  two  first  stages,  so  that  I  saved  not  a  farthing  by  using  my  own  equi- 
page. Started  at  10.  with  a  dull  prospect  for  the  night;  took  a  seat  by  the  side 
of  an  Hamburger,  who  bothered  me  very  soon  with  his  questions,  to  which  I 
could  make  but  short  answers.  Slept  some,  tho'  at  the  risk  of  falling  out  of 
the  Cart  Coach  —  Came  at  5  ^^  to  Sonnenwalde,  where  after  providing  at 
the  Tavern  for  my  horse  took  some  coffee  for  self. 

Wed  29  Mounted  my  horse  and  went  on  to  Luckau  —  got  in  an  hour 
before  the  post.  Put  up  at  the  tavern  where  the  host  would  give  me  no  chamber, 
saying  he  had  none,  which  was  a  lie,  for  when  the  post  came  in  he  found  a 
chamber  for  the  passengers  —  Dined  sparingly  for  a  good  reason  &  as  I  since 
learn,  paid  just  double  for  my  dinner,  to  what  was  paid  by  my  traveling  com- 
panions &  for  exactly  the  same  fare  —  so  much  for  my  bad  German,  or  rather 
for  being  a  stranger.  Started  a-fresh  at  12  ^  —  One  of  the  passengers  who 
had  possessed  himself  of  my  seat,  made  no  offer  to  resign  it  to  me  and  rather 
than  make  disturbance,  took  up  with  a  seat  with  the  driver  —  we  had  proceeded 
but  a  short  distance  before  the  said  polite  gentleman  discovered  that  some  of 
his  luggage  was  missing  &  he  was  obliged  to  return  for  it  —  As  my  seat 
thereby  became  vacant,  I  made  no  scruple  to  replacing  myself  in  it,  in  prefer- 

iln  1791. 

2  Grune  Gewolbe  or  cabinet  of  jewels. 

*  A  "tip"  or  gratuity. 


30  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

ence  to  being  jolted  unmercifully  in  front  with  Schwager}  The  man  soon 
returned  with  his  package  &  very  acrimoniously  as  well  as  sour-lookingly 
apostrophized.  Und  mein  plats  wider  hesetztf  Ja,  said  I  —  the  place  was  first 
mine  —  without  more  words  he  very  quietly  took  the  seat  he  bef or[e]  occupied 
and  was  I  am  very  sure  sufficiently  punished  for  his  intended  usurpation  by 
the  bone  breaking  jolts  he  received. 

Came  to  Baruth  at  7  ^  and  got  something  quite  clever  to  eat  at  Post 
Masters.  Fed  my  horse  with  oats  brought  from  Elsterwerda  &  at  9  ^^,  started 
for  Mittenwalde —  Night  unpleasantly  cold  &  the  stage  extraordinarily 
tedious  —  came  about  day  break  to  the  town.  The  under  Officer  who 
examined  us  was  more  sleeping  than  awake  and  satisfied  his  curiosity  with  the 
names  of  about  half  the  passengers.  A  timely  shower  had  much  damped  his 
curiosity.  My  horse  fared  hard  here,  for  the  rascally  Postilion  who  had  my 
oats  in  his  sack  instead  of  delivering  them  over  at  the  last  stage  to  his  comrad, 
appropriated  them  to  his  own  use  —  the  discovery  of  which  very  much  irritated 
my  nerves  &  darkened  the  complexion  of  my  language  —  I  could  have  eaten 
the  fellows  heart  if  I  could  have  come  at  it.    The  last  stage  begins  with 

Thursd  30  After  breakfasting  upon  coffee  at  5  ^  started  for  Berlin  and 
had  a  most  uncomfortable  ride  on  account  of  the  wind  —  reached  post  office  at 
11  3^  and  after  due  examination  of  baggage,  came  home  at  12  and  found  M"" 
&  M"  A[dams]  in  good  health.  Drest  myself  &  layed  [sic]  down  —  called 
soon  after  to  dinner,  but  preferred  sleeping  —  which  I  did  till  9,  when  I  got 
up  and  went  to  supper. 

Frid  31  Forenoon  at  home,  after  called  at  D*"  Browns  &  saw  M''  Richard, 
Brown's  Sen""  &  Jun""  drank  tea  there  —  M^  Metcalf. 

Satur  P*  September.  After  dinner  went  in  carriage  with  M"  A[dams] 
to  Charlottenburg.  Met  the  family  in  good  health  —  Miss  Briihl's  there. 
Came  home  early  on  ace*  of  the  roads. 

Sund  2  Rode  out  about  2  >^  to  Charl^  with  D""  &  W™  [Brownj  M-"  Gar- 
like joined  us.  Dined  &  passed  the  Ev^  —  had  a  very  dark  uncomfortable 
time  on  my  return  to  town. 

Mond  3.  Went  towards  even^  with  Brown  Jun""  to  purchase  a  hat  — 
Gave  Rx  T^ — for  one.     Returned  &  walked  with  B[rown]  near  to  the  tents. 

Tuesd  4  Rode  out  with  B[rown]  Jun""  to  Ch^  found  there  Mess"  Richards 
&  Courtois  —  walked  a  long  time  on  the  terrass  —  Supp'd  and  then  had  a  little 
hop  in  commemoration  of  M"  B[rown]S  birth  day.    I  lodged  there. 

Wed  5  Afternoon  at  Casino  —  At  6  went  out  with  B[rown]  in  their 
peasants  cart;  dull  ride.  Spoke  a  Cart  driver  to  call  for  me  at  9,  he  failed 
and  I  was  obliged  to  stay  the  night.    Had  a  fine  game  of  romps  with  the  girls. 

Thurs  6  Walked  in  to  town  between  7  &  8.  At  home  'till  2  ^  then  went 
into  town  with  B[rown]  to  buy  some  articles  —  Afternoon  went  with  D''  &  W. 
B[rown]  to  Pancko  ^  to  see  Mile  Bishof  f swerder  —  met  there  Mad  la  Comtesse 


^  Postillion. 
2  Rix  Thaler. 
*  Pankow. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  31 

Pannin  —  Mad  Rochammont  —  the  Countess  Graf fski  —  Sister  to  Mile  B  ^ 
Mile  E  Zeinert  and  Mad.  B  —  the  mother.  Mess"  Musquits  ^  &  Annadia  — 
M""  Garlike  who  introduced  me  to  Countess  Pannin  —  Stayed  an  hour  &  then 
returned  &  passed  the  ev^  at  D""  Browns  —  M''  D  there  English  Consul  at 
Memmel  —    Backgammon  with  him. 

Frid:  7  Went  into  town  before  dinner  with  W™  Brown  called  at  Petra's 
book-store  &  bought  a  book  —  Evg^  at  Casino  &  at  D""  Brown's;  took  leave 
of  Billy.3 

Satur  8*^  At  home  till  6  in  the  even^  then  at  Casino  —  Billds  [Billiards] 
with  Count  Podewills. 

Sun  9*''  Forenoon  at  home  —  afternoon  at  Ch^  at  M""  Cohen's  where 
were  the  Browns  and  M""  Richard  —  home  in  good  season. 

Mond:  10  Walk  in  the  park  before  dinner  &  afternoon  at  Ch^.  Called 
after  return  on  M""  Richards. 

Tues  11  At  home  till  night,  then  at  Casino  —  walk  about  town  &  under 
the  Linden. 

Wed:  12  Dined  at  Ch^  upon  Venison.  Mad""^  &  Mile  Bishoffswerder 
there.    Mad"^  Countess  H^  Briihl  &  Mary.    Home  in  season. 

Thurs  13  At  home  very  busy  till  evening  —  then  at  Casino  —  Heard 
of  M''  Welsh's  arrival."^ 

Frid  14     As  yesterday  —  wrote  to  my  mother. 

Satur.  15  My  birth  day^ —  Nothing  remarkable  to  distinguish  it  from 
the  other  days  of  the  year.  M""  Richards  dined  with  us  &  I  took  a  ride  to  Ch^ 
afterwards  —  gone  but  2  hours  —  Ev^  at  home. 

Sund  16*''     Ev^  at  Bellevue,  but  came  off  early  with  M""^  Adams. 

Mond  17*^  Out  before  6  this  morning  to  see  the  Manoeuvres  which 
were  clever  enough,  rode  home  with  M  de  Sievers  —  afternoon  at  Charlotten- 
burg  &  ev^  at  Casino  —    Billds  [Billiards]  with  Novikof  f . 

Tues  18*^  Manoeuvres  again  to  day;  far  the  prettiest  of  any  —  battle 
—  Ev^  Casino. 

Wed  19*^  Evening  at  Charl^  —  walk  in  the  Kings  garden,  belonging  to 
the  palace  —  very  pretty  —  the  B[row]ns  &  Briihls.  Called  at  the  Countess, 
who  is  recovering  from  a  severe  ague  &  fever. 

Thurs:  20  Fine  day  —  dined  early  &  went  out  soon  after  to  Ch^  — 
Countess  Briihl  at  M"  Browns.  Walk  again  in  the  Palace  garden  with  the 
young  ones. 

Frid  2P*  Ev^  at  the  Play  —  Opera  —  der  hamn  der  diana  —  which  have 
seen  once  or  twice  before.    Music  very  pretty.    Met  Novikof f  there. 

Satur  22*^  Went  again  to  the  play  —  not  much  amused  —  met  Ouast 
there  —  he  has  been  ill  with  the  ague  —  afterwards  at  Casino  —  Billds  [Bil- 
liards] with  Novikoff. 


^  Perhaps  Briihl. 

2  Evidently  of  the  family  of  JMuschwitz. 

3  William  Brown. 

*  Thomas  Welsh,  son  of  Dr.  Thomas  Welsh.     He  succeeded  Thomas  B.  Adams  in  the  post  of  secretary 
to  the  Legation. 

^He  was  born  on  September  15,  1772. 


32  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Snnd  23'^  Went  out  in  a  peasants  Cart  to  Charl^  with  M.  Richard  — 
dined  there  —  returned  same  way  &  had  an  uncomfortable  ride,  on  account  of 
the  dust  raised  by  the  carriages  returning  from  the  Pottsdam  Reviews, 

Mon  24  M""  Richard's  dined  with  us  —  sat  late  after  dinner  —  took 
a  short  ride  nevertheless  —  Ev^  M""  Garlike  —  called  on  us  —  passed  it  myself 
with  M"  A[dams]  M""  A[dams]  at  Princess  Henry's. 

Tues  25  After  dinner  rode  to  Ch^ —  found  the  young  ladies  the  Briihls 
&  Courtois  in  the  palace  garden.  Stayed  late  —  Rained  a  little  —  went  to 
Casino  as  soon  as  my  horse  was  disposed  of  &  met  M""  Coesmar  Russian  Lega- 
tion Sec^ —  talked  a  good  deal. 

Wed  26  After  dinner  at  Casino  —  Ev^  Bellevue  —  whist  with  Minister 
Heinitz,  Baron  Geertz  &  M*"  Foster  —  lost  —  and  was  angry  —  the  third  time 
within  a  few  months  &  almost  every  time  I  have  played,  that  I  lose  by  the  cursed 
ignorant  negligence  of  my  partner  —  Cards  will  not  suit  my  temper  at  this  rate. 

Thurs  27  Went  out  with  Mess"  Foster  &  Garlike  on  horseback  to  Ch^ 
and  dined  there  with  M""  &  M"  A[dams]  Stayed  till  7  >4  &  then  ret^  with 
F[Oster]. 

Frid  28.  Went  into  town  &  did  some, errands  —  after  dinner  went  out 
to  Charlottenburg  —  walked  to  hunt  out  the  young  ladies  in  Palace  garden  — 
found  and  ref^  with  them  to  tea  at  Countess  Briihl's  —  Perponcher  took  leave 
of  them  —  &  ret<^  to  town  about  8  >4  —  went  to  Casino;  met  Foster  there 
and  went  with  him  to  Burghers  —  saw  what  was  to  be  seen,  and  did  what  was 
to  be  done  —  home  late. 

Satur  29  M""  T[homas]  Welsh  arrived  last  evening  and  breakfasted  with 
us  this  morning  —  Spent  the  day  in  packing  up  and  preparing  to  be  off  — 
Mess"  Welsh  &  Richards  dined  with  us  —  Introduced  W[elsh]  to  Casino  — 
Garlike  called  &  said  good  bye  —  Went  with  M"  A[dams]  to  the  Accademy 
exhibition  of  paintings  —  saw  Foster  there  Before  going  to  bed  wrote  a 
note  to  M"  Brown. 

Sunday  30*''  Called  at  4  ^  —  went  to  Post  office  in  carriage  &  arrived 
there  in  good  season  —  5  ^  before  we  started  —  Three  fellow  travellers  at 
setting  out;  took  up  another  at  Schoneberg  —  which  completed  our  number  for 
the  first  seats  —  behind  were  three  other  persons  —  serv*'  to  the  other  passen- 
gers &''^  At  Zeilendorf,^  the  half  way  house,  found  that  one  of  the  passengers, 
old  kanfnian  Laurent  spoke  french  —  and  on  the  road  to  P[Otsda]m;  another 
Captain  Meyer,  this  discovery  was  a  considerable  relief  —  Student  Matthy's 
and  the  other  passenger  spoke  only  German  —  upon  arrival  at  Potsdam  went 
with  M.  Laurent  to  a  Gasthaus/  and  took  breakfast  —  joined  by  the  three 
Students  of  Halle,  two  of  whom  travel  in  the  bye  waggon  —  met  here  a  finical, 
petit  maitre,^  whom  I  knew  by  his  monkyish  appearance  at  once,  having  seen 
him  often  in  Holland  at  the  dancing  assemblies  —  he  is  an  officer  in  the  regi- 
ment of  Waldeck  —  spoke  to  him  —  he  recollected  me  —  but  we  dont  know 

1  Zehlendorf. 

2  Inn. 

3  A   fop. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  33 

each  others  names  —  he  was  very  civil  &  seemed  quite  happy  to  meet  an  old 
acquaintance,  though  we  never  before  spoke  to  each  other.  Started  a  fresh  and 
had  a  very  tedious  ride  —  dined  poorly  —  supped  at  Treuenbreitzen  ^  upon 
potatoes,  very  fine  —  well  served  &  neat  house,  about  12  ^  arrived  at 
Portsdorf^  where  we  changed  Waggons  with  one  that  arrived  soon  after  us, 
full  of  passengers  from  Halle;  most  of  them  Students. 

Monday  P'  October  Off  at  2  J^  and  slept  most  of  the  way  to  the  next 
Post  hause  at  [Original  blank]  near  Wittemberg  —  very  good  breakfast  served 
by  a  very  tidy  &  pretty  waiting  maid  —  arrived  at  Dessau  12  3^  —  dined  at  the 
golden  Ring  with  the  rest  of  the  passengers,  who  were  off  at  1  ^  —  Took  a 
walk  about  town,  and  in  the  park  —  thence  to  the  burying  ground,  which  is 
quite  a  curiosity;  as  all  the  bodies  are  placed  in  cells  built  with  brick  &  plaistered 
inside  —  against  a  wall  with  inscriptions  upon  the  top  or  on  a  square  plate  of 
white  composition,  in  likeness  of  marble. 

There  are  here  two  Rivers  —  the  Elbe  &  the  Molde  both  considerably 
large;  the  latter  empties  itself  into  the  former  at  a  short  distance  from  the  town. 

Tuesd  2^  Up  at  8  —  Rainy  wxather  —  kept  house  &  dined  at  12  ^  at 
Table  d'Hote.  Consulted  the  Kallender  and  find  that  the  Post  waggon  for 
Brunswic  goes  tomorrow  at  12 —  This  town  is  the  residence  of  a  Saxon 
prince  whose  titles  are  as  follows  —  Leopold  Frederic  Franz  —  Fiirst  von 
Anhalt  —  Herzog  zu  Sachsen  —  Engern  und  Westphalien  —  Graf  zu  Asca- 
nen,  Herr  zu  Zerbst,  Bernburg;  &''^  &'=^  &*'^  The  town  of  Dessau  is  situated 
upon  the  river  Molde  which  falls  into  the  Elbe  a  little  below  it.  Tried  very 
hard  to  amuse  myself,  but  did  not  succeed.     Short  walk  towards  night. 

Wed  3^^  Up  5  >4  &  of f  7  ^  for  Worlitz  —  breakfasted  there  after  a  very 
cold  ride  —  Went  to  the  Prince's  Pallace  &  overran  it  in  a  little  time;  making 
few  remarks  &  seeing  little  worthy  of  them  —  The  place  altogether;  house 
&  garden  is  professedly  in  the  English  Stile  —  I  was  pleased  with  both,  but 
my  deliberate  opinion  is,  that  they  neither  pay  the  time,  expence,  or  trouble, 
of  going  out  of  one's  way  to  see  them.  In  the  house  noticed  a  painting,  (quite 
large)  of  a  bathing  scene  of  females,  in  which  they  are  surprised  by  a  male 
intruder  —  rather  well  than  otherwise,  for  any  body  to  have  done  — 
Extremely  so  for  a  lady  and  princess.  The  library  of  the  Prince  contains 
many  of  the  best  Authors,  A  &  M  ^  &  in  several  languages  —  it  is  but  a  small 
cabinet  however  &  contains  a  vast  number  of  busts  in  relief  of  all  the  great  men 
A  &  M.  Hurried  through  the  house  and  garden  in  the  idea  of  getting  back 
[tO]  Dessau  before  12.  The  grounds  are  actually  handsomly  laid  out,  and  the 
style  may  be  English.  I  saw  only  a  few  of  the  temples  &"  but  in  other  places 
I  have  seen  as  good.  The  Host  at  the  Inn,  asked  me  of  what  nation  I  was. 
Told  him  American  —  He  said,  he  had  been  there  —  In  North  America,  said  I  ? 
Yes!  Three  times  in  Boston  Philad^  &  N  York  —  He  rattled  over  fifty 
questions  in  a  minute  —  spoke  one  or  two  words  of  french  &  as  many  of 
English,  and  continued  by  telling  me  I  spoke  fine  German  —  From  a  question 


Treuenbrietzen,    a    Prussian    town. 
■  Postorf. 
Ancient    and    modern. 


34 


THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 


or  two  he  asked,  I  thought  he  could  not  have  been  in  America,  but  when  I  came 
to  tell  my  v.d.p.  of  the  circumstance,  he  put  it  at  once  beyond  a  doubt  that  the 
man  was  a  traveller  upon  Alaps  but  neither  by  sea  or  land,  for  he  says  to  every 
person  that  goes  there  if  he  can  find  them  out,  that  he  has  been  in  their 
Country  —    He  is  no  favorite  with  my  vallet. 

Upon  return,  applied  for  a  seat  in  the  stage  for  Magdeburg,  but  found  it 
only  went  2  miles  &  then  waited  for  the  stage  of  tomorrow  —  concluded  to 
stay  the  night  at  Dessau  &  annoyed  myself  extremely.  Took  a  walk  in  the 
park  &  ogled  a  couple  of  young  girls,  who  returned  it  with  interest,  but  though 
I  thought  myself  invited,  I  dared  not  speak  to  them,  for  one  reason  only,  namely 
lest  they  should  not  understand  me  —    Ev^  by  self. 

Thursday  4*''  Paid  a  very  heavy  bill;  cursed  and  quit  the  Golden  Ring 
at  7  o'clock  in  the  morning  with  the  appearance  of  bad  weather  —  but  as  my 
carriage  was  close  felt  little  concern  on  that  account,  and  rather  than  have 
stayed  another  day  in  the  place,  I  would  have  braved  storms  tempests  &  even 
ordinary  post  waggons.  The  weather  cleared  up  fine  about  11  o'Clock,  and 
over  a  good  road  we  travelled  at  the  rate  of  a  G.  M.  in  five  quarters  of  an  hour. 
Arrived  at  Gnadaii,  a  neat  little  town  or  village,  inhabited  by  Moravians  or 
Heerenhilttcrs.  The  tavern  is  one  of  the  cleanest  &  most  decent  I  have  yet 
seen  —  perhaps  it  claims  the  first  place.  Dined  comfortably  in  company  with 
a  fellow  traveller  and  spoke  a  great  deal  of  bad  German  —  proud  however  of 
being  able  to  make  myself  understood.  Started  again  at  2  ^  and  came  to  the 
Gate  of  Magdeburg,  at  4  ^,  detained  there  &  with  the  examination  of  baggage 
^  of  an  hour.  Came  to  the  K[ing]  of  Prussia  Hotel  &  took  a  Vallet  de  place, 
who  like  the  one  at  Dessau  spoke  only  german.  The  day's  ride  has  been 
comparatively  very  pleasant,  though  lonely  —  The  road  at  this  season  is  in 
fine  order,  and  through  a  Country  covered  with  villages  and  land  which  has 
the  credit  of  being  very  rich.  Saw  much  appearance  of  industry  &  cultivation. 
At  Gnadau  there  is  a  steel  manufactory. 

Went  to  the  play  &  saw,  a  piece  translated  from  the  french  of  Huber, 
called  Offnen  Fehde  and  an  after  piece  of  Kotzebue  called  der  man  von  viert- 
zig  Jahr  which  I  think  to  be  taken  from  the  man  of  feeling  very  exactly.  The 
theatre  is  really  very  pretty;  upon  a  small  scale,  but  very  nicely  arranged; 
especially  the  Pitt.  The  Actors  were  very  tolerable;  Company  very  thin,  but 
one  beautiful  girl  in  the  number.  Returned  to  Supper  quite  satisfied  with 
first  impressions. 

Frid:  5*  After  breakfast  took  a  walk  to  the  parade  first  where  I  saw 
a  poor  soldier  who  was  to  run  the  Gauntlet  ten  times  through  a  file  of  200  of 
his  comrads.  He  heard  his  sentence  read  without  emotion  &  took  400  of  his 
2,000  lashes  without  a  groan.  I  could  bear  to  see  no  more.  Thence,  went  to  the 
Dome  or  Dome  Church  —  a  very  large  &  ancient  Gothic  building  —  venerable 
for  its  antiquity  as  well  as  for  the  curiosities  it  contains.  To  me  the  most  remark- 
able, though  not  the  most  ancient  —  are  the  16  paintings,  representing  the 
sufferings  &  crucifiction  of  Christ,  by  Lucas  Kraner.  They  are  nearly  or 
quite  300  years  old  &  the  colours  are  yet  perfectly  fresh.     The  Groupe  of 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  35 

Christ  &  the  12,  equals  for  expression  of  countenance  &  propriety  (according 
to  my  idea  of  design)  the  best  painting  I  ever  saw.  This  Church  is  of  all  the 
curiosities  I  have  seen  in  Germany  —  the  most  remarkable,  as  a  monument  of 
art  &  antiquity.  Walked  round  the  princesses  Walde  upon  the  margin  of  the 
Elbe  &  crossed  over  a  bridge  to  the  Citadel  —  a  state  prison,  where  LaFayette 
&  his  suite  were  confined  3  months^  previous  to  their  being  transported  to 
Olmutz.^  Returning  saw  a  number  of  mills,  anchored  in  the  River  with  the 
appurtenances.  Magd:^  is  a  considerable  manufacturing  town  &  its  vicinity 
to  Leipsig  gives  it  the  benefit  of  the  fair's  at  that  place;  of  one  of  which  this 
is  the  season.  Dined  at  T[able]  d'hote  —  paid  my  Bill —  (very  reasonable) 
and  sat  off  at  3  for  Brunswick  in  a  chaise  —  arrived  at  8  at  a  miserable  house 
where  was  obliged  to  pass  the  night. 

Saturday  6*^  Up  at  4  ^  &  off  at  5  ^,  had  rather  an  uncomfortable 
ride;  roads  not  very  good  to  Helmstadt.  My  old  man  would  have  his  way, 
which  was  to  avoid  going  through  the  town,  and  as  one  of  his  horses  was  lame, 

I  did  not  insist  upon  it.  Overtook  a  female  traveller,  in  a  chaise  like  mine, 
alone  &  going  to  Brunswick.  Postilions  proposed  our  joining  company  that 
one  of  them  might  return,  but  the  lady  was  old  &  uninviting.  I  therefore 
declined.  We  were  compelled  to  dine  together  however,  but  my  purpose  of 
riding  alone  was  thereby  the  more  confirmed.  The  turnpike  is  very  miserable, 
my  carriage  almost  without  springs,  which  made  the  afternoon  ride  intoler- 
able. Arrived  at  Brunswick  at  4  —  The  old  man  took  me  as  usual  to  a  very 
unpromising  Hotel  called  deiitschen  Jiaiis  in  the  Jimgfer  Strasse,  where  after 
discharging  him  —  dressed  and  took  a  walk  upon  the  Ramparts  &  returned 
through  the  Pallace  garden.     Supp'd  at  the  Hotel  d'Angleterre  very  well  for 

II  Giiten  groschen. 

Sund  7^^  Walked  about  town  —  dined  at  H[Otel]  d'Ang^  find  nobody 
going  to  Hamburg  —  Ev^  at  the  play  saw  a  piece  translated  from  the  f rench 
Visitandines  called  in  German,  die  Urselinerinnen'^  and  [an]  after  piece  called 
the  Stammbaum  or  geneological  tree  —    Supp'd  at  Hotel  d'Ang. 

Mond  8*^  Ordered  a  Carriage  &  Post  horses  and  was  off  precisely  at 
10  o'clock  —  rode  all  day  &  reached  Celle  or  Zelle  at  7  }^  —  detained  two 
hours  and  was  imposed  on  by  Waggon  master  &  postilion — -.got  off  about  9 
and  did  not  reach  the  next  stage  of  2  ^  M  till  2  —  kept  about  an  hour  & 
then  off. 

Tuesd  9  —  Had  made  but  a  few  roods  from  the  Post  house  before  the 
Postilion  made  a  signal  and  two  men  appeared  at  the  side  of  the  waggon  & 
the  Post"  turned  to  me  and  begged  permission  to  take  them  up.  I  did  not  like, 
but  could  not  refuse  it  —  they  got  in  &  sat  very  quietly  out  side  —  the  first 
stop  we  made  found  they  spoke  french  —  &  that  one  of  them  was  an  Emigrant, 
the  other  a  student  at  some  University —    Took  them  along  in  this  manner 


»  In  1792. 

-  Olmiitz,    where    Lafayette   was   confined   until    1797. 

^  Magdeburg. 

*  Les  \'isitandines,  a  comic  opera,  composed  by  Francois  Devienne,  with  libretto  by  Louis  Benoit,  first 
produced  in  the  original  in  1792.  The  German  version,  under  the  title  of  Die  Ursulinerinnen,  was  made  by 
Heinrich  Gottlieb  Schmieder  and  was  first  performed  at  Hamburg  in  May,   1798. 


S6  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

two  long  stages  &  was  much  obliged  to  them  for  their  company  —  as  they 
turned  out  to  be  above  the  common  run  and  had  conversation  enough  for  the 
occasion  —  a  most  tedious  road  &  vexatious  beyond  bearing  —  Made  the  last 
stage  3  M  alone;  as  the  gentlemen  chose  to  go  forward  while  I  stopped  for 
fresh  horses  —  Met  at  Stage  house  a  Gentleman  &  two  ladies  just  arrived, 
belonging  to  Berlin  but  coming  from  Munich  going  on  to  Harburg  ^ —  got 
off  about  3  }i  and  reached  the  Konig  von  Schzveden  at  8.  The  Carriage  and 
four  had  arrived  before  me,  but  the  walkers  had  not  come  in  —  Supp'd  & 
retired  to  my  room  —  The  Pedestrians  came  in  soon  after  with  an  old 
peasant  whom  they  hired  as  a  guide,  having  lost  their  road  &  strayed  wide  from 
the  direct  way. 

Wed  lO^''  Up  at  6  &  off  at  7.  in  the  boat  for  Hamburg,  which  was 
crowded  with  goods  &  passengers  —  nearly  3  hours  before  we  got  on  shore  at 
Hamburg  —  A  waterman  took  my  trunk  on  his  shoulder  &  we  tried  to  get  in 
at  the  K[ing]  of  Engl"^  but  found  it  full  —  went  &  found  a  chamber  at  the 
Oher  Geselschaft  near  the  Exchange  —  Dressed  took  a  vallet  de  Place  & 
went  to  call  upon  Pitcairn,  who  was  out  —  went  on  Change  &  met  a  number 
of  my  old  dutch  acquaintances  Clerks  in  the  house,  which  M""  Beeldemaker  has 
established  here  —  M*"  Havart  —  M""  Rogers  —  Childs  —  introduced  to  M*" 
Brush  of  New  York  —  Dined  with  Childs  at  a  Table  d'hote  and  afterwards 
called  on  Pitcairn,  where  was  a  considerable  company  of  the  old  Senators  & 
Merchants  of  the  town  Sir  James  Crauford  the  Eng  Minister  —  M""  Pop, 
Schramm  After  the  company  was  off  —  went  with  Rogers  &  Pitcairn  to 
the  f rench  play  —  Saw  some  fine  acting  &  dancing  —  Returned  to  supper  at 
P[itcairn]S  &  found  Childs  there  —  Home  little  before  12. 

Thursd  1 V^  Called  on  M^  Havart  at  the  K[ing]  of  Engl<^  He  sent  for  M"" 
Bicker  Carton,  who  came  in  soon  after  —  very  glad  to  see  him  —  Called  on 
Pitcairn  &  got  some  things  out  of  my  trunk  —  Returned  home  &  then  to 
Havarts  who  took  me  in  company  with  an  old  Countryman  of  his  to  dine  at 
the  Dutch  Cof fe  [sic]  house  out  of  town  —  Met  there  a  company  of  12  clever 
Dutchmen  —  had  a  fine  dinner  &  passed  a  very  pleasant  time  —  Returned  in 
time  for  the  f r  [French]  Play  —  went  &  saw  the  School  for  Mothers  &''^  pretty 
well  performed  —  Met  Childs  &  Brush  —  Supped  with  them  at  K[ing]  of 
E[ngland]. 

Frid  12  Dined  with  Pitcairn  &  Rogers  —  Play  at  night,  returned  to 
supper  &  found  Childs  there  —  stayed  late. 

Satur:  13  Went  with  Mess"  Rogers  &  Childs  on  board  a  number  of 
vessels  bound  to  America  —  like  Capt"  Jenkins'  as  well  as  any  —  Capt"  Hef  ron 
in  the  three  friends  has  a  clumsy  but  convenient  vessel,  unarmed.  Dined  at 
Pitcairns  &  passed  the  evening  there  —  Met  M*"  Robinson  an  En^m** 
[Englishman]. 

Sund  14  Went  in  a  carriage  with  R[Ogers]  &  C[hilds]  —  to  dine  at  the 
seat  of  M''  Muir,  an  English  merchant  about  8  miles  from  town  —  Stopped 
at  old  M*"  Parish's,  saw  him  &  met  there  Sir  James  Craufurd  &  his  lady  — 


Harburg,  a  Prussian  town  six  miles  south  of  Hamburg. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  37 

Went  on  to  Muirs  and  waited  till  5  o'Clock  for  dinner,  M.  M[iiir]  being  out  on 
a  hunting  party —  Too  late  to  dine  if  we  resolved  to  go  to  town,  we  chose 
rather  to  stay  the  night.     Played  whist  —  slept  in  a  Cott. 

Mond  15  Returned  to  town  &  breakfasted  at  P[itcairn]S  —  Home  & 
wrote  letters  —  Upon  Exchange  could  not  find  Capt  Jenkins  —  Met  several 
acquaintances  —  went  with  the  Brushes  &  dined  at  Hotel  d'Angleterre.  Several 
Dutchmen  —  Havart  Bicker,^  Myn  Hccr  Persoon.  Saw  the  Irish  man  Hamil- 
ton at  table,  whom  I  knew  in  Holland  —  Went  to  Brushes  room  &  met  an 
invitation  there  from  a  West  Indian  from  S*  Croix  by  the  name  of  Coppy.^ 
Went  to  the  play  — saw  Don  Juan  or  la  fete  de  St  Pierre^  performed  with 
Am.broise  ou  voila  ma  journee  '^ —  Supp'd  with  the  aforesaid  Coppy  and  never 
was  so  completely  bored  in  my  life.    Home  at  1  o'Clock. 

Tues  16  Driving  about  town  &  upon  Change  —  Dined  with  the  Brushe's 
&  Childs  at  T[able]  d'hote —  afterwards  played  Billds  [Billiards]  with 
B[rush]  Senior  &  beat  him.     Supp'd  at  the  Hotel  d'Angleterre  with  them. 

Wed  17  Called  at  the  Globe  Tavern  for  Capt*"  Jenkins  but  he  was  out  — 
met  Rogers  there  &  went  with  him  to  P[itcairn]S  wrote  a  letter  to  my  Brother 
—  called  on  M'"  Muir,  then  at  Change  —  At  3  went  &  dined  at  Pitcairns  with 
Childs  —  the  Brushes  &  Rogers  —    Passed  the  Even^  there. 

Thurs  18.  According  to  appointment  I  met  Capt"  Jenkins  at  his  lodgings 
&  went  with  him  &  several  other  Capt^  viz  Capt"  Palmer,  Gardner,  Hefferon 
on  board  the  Alexander  Hamilton  —  Capt"  Clarke  —  Got  some  Red  Herring 
&  Porter  &'^^  the  Capt  himself  came  soon  after  &  treated  us  very  handsomely  — 
I  engaged  a  passage  on  board  him  &  chose  my  birth.  From  his  went  on  board 
the  three  friends  Capt  Hefferon  —  drank  wine  there  &  then  on  board  the 
America  —  where  we  were  joined  by  the  Brushes  —  From  thence  on  shore 
&  to  Change  —  Dined  at  Konig  von  England  with  Brush  Jun""  found  him  to  be 
a  member  of  *  B  K  —  Billds  [Billiards]  till  8  —  then  till  10  at  their  rooms. 

Frid  19  Dined  at  Kaisers  hof  with  Brrush]  Jun""  Billds  [Billiards]  after- 
wards, then  with  him  &  Childs  at  K[6nig]  V[On]  E[ngland],  where  we  played 
little  Lu  &  learnt  a  lesson  from  it.     Stayed  late. 

Satur  20  Called  &  took  breakfast  with  Brush  Sen""  and  went  with  him  on 
board  the  Alex'"  Hamilton  —  Capt"  Clarke  was  not  on  board  —  return'd  and 
dressed  for  an  excursion  to  M""  Parishes  at  Nine  Stadten  took  up  Childs  after 
a  tedious  waiting  &  sat  off  about  2  o'Clock  dined  at  3  ^  and  sat  off  to  return 
by  4  ^  —  just  saved  our  distance,  and  got  in  before  Gates  close.  Went  to 
Pitcairns  &  met  there  M.  Alex""  Lameth,  M*"  Polard  &  Childs  Rogers  &  M""  Rob- 
inson came  in  after  —  some  pleasant  conversation  with  Lameth  —  stayed  late. 
•  Sund  21  Brush  Sen""  called  —  went  &  took  leave  of  Childs  —  Dined  at 
Kaisers  Hoff  with  B[rush]  Jun""  and  played  Billds  [Billiards]  after  —  thence  to 
the  play  —  The  Deserter  —  &  the  choice  of  Paris.  Suppd  at  Hotel  d'Angle- 
terre with  B[rush]  Jun''. 


*  Havart  and  Bicker  Carton. 
-  Coppee. 

^  Perhaps  Mozart's  Don  Juan. 

*  A  musical  comedy  composed  by  Nicolas  Dalayrac,  with  libretto  by  J.   M.   Boutet,  called  Monvel.     It 
was  first  performed  at  Paris  in  1793. 


38  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

Mond  22     Called  on  the  B[rushe]S  &  then  at  Pitcairns  —  thence  to  Change 

—  Capt"  Clarke  introduced  me  to  M""  Fowler  my  fellow  passenger  &  he  took 
me  to  a  shop  where  I  bought  a  Matrass  &  covering.  Dined  at  Pitcairn's  and 
went  to  the  play  afterwards  —  La  Gouvernante  ^  &  le  prisonnier^ —  Supp'd 
again  at  Hotel  d'Angleterre  with  B[rush]  S"" 

Tues  23^  Paid  for  my  Bedding  &^^  Dined  with  M'  Fowler  at  the  Hotel 
d'Angleterre  —    Evening  with  Brush  Jun''  at  an  house  of  entertainment. 

Wednes  24  Dined  with  a  considerable  company  at  M""  George  Smiths 
a  Scotchman  by  birth,  though  long  settled  in  this  Country  as  a  merchant.  Met 
there  a  Capf"  Clarke  &  M""  Marcou.  Very  handsome  dinner  —  M""  Smith 
invited  young  B[rush]  &  self  &  M""  Flannigin  to  hunt  with  him  tomorrow  — 
agreed  to  meet  at  his  house  7  o'Clock.  Supp'd  at  King  of  England  with 
Brush's  &  Pitcairn. 

Thurs  25  Called  at  the  K[6nig]  V[on]  Eng[landt]  at  7  ^  —  there  met 
Brush  &  Flannigin,  thence  to  M""  Smiths  where  we  took  breakfast  &  about  8  ^^ 
were  off  for  the  hunt  —  nearly  1 1  before  we  reached  the  ground  —  found  our 
dog  good  for  nothing  &  let  him  go  off  with  the  waggon.  Started  a  hare;  in 
less  than  an  hour  had  seen  three  —  I  got  the  first  shot,  &  Brush  the  2'^,  neither 
stopp'd  his  game.  M*"  Smith  got  several  Shots,  but  missed  them  all.  We  had  a 
fine  day  &  a  long  walk,  which  gave  us  good  appetites,  for  a  fine  dinner  which 
was  ready  for  us  upon  arrival  at  M""  John  Smiths  —  Schoenfeld  is  the  name  of 
the  vilage  where  he  lives  in  a  very  handsome  st3de.  A  M'"  Viotti  an  Italian 
musician  lives  there  at  present.  Several  of  M""  Smith's  Captains  were  there  and 
Mess"  Pitcairn  &  Brush  Sen""  came  in  just  as  we  had  done  dinner,  which 
occasioned  some  embarrassment,  though  they  got  some  dinner  &  excellent  wine. 
Off  early  for  town  &  reached  it  in  good  season  —  drank  tea  at  M""  Smiths  — 
played  Billds  [Billiards]  with  Brush  &  supp'd  with  Flannigin. 

Frid  26*''  Forenoon  at  Pitcairns  answering  letters  —  Dined  at  K[6nig] 
V[on]  Engl[andt]  &  after  dinner  played  Billds  with  the  Brush's  &  a  M*"  Gorman 
Eng[lish]  Merch*  settled  at  Leghorn,  with  whom  we  afterwards  supp'd  at  the 
Restaurateur  Girards  —  Elegant  supper  &''''  but  after  conversation  begun  to 
flag  —  singing  was  introduced  &  spoiled  all  the  pleasure  of  the  evening  — 

Satur  27*''  Morning  rose  late  &  went  to  Pitcairns  wrote  to  my  Father 
to  go  by  Jenkins  —  Went  to  Change  —  thence  returned  to  dine  with  Pitcairn 
upon  Salt  fish  —  Met  there  M''  Proud  an  American  &  M*"  Rhea  an  Eng[lish] 
Gent""  Came  away  with  B[rush]  Jun""  and  played  Bil'ds  [Billiards]  —  supp^ 
with  him. 

Sun  28*''  Hired  an  horse  &  went  out  to  Schoenveld  to  see  M""  Smith  — 
Found  him  at  home  and  was  very  pleasantly  received  by  him  —  took  some 
refreshment  and  returned  to  M""  Parishes  where  stayed  half  an  hour  &  then 
came  to  town  —  waited  the  return  of  the  hunters  &  dined  with  them  at  Girrards 

—  Billds  [Billiards]  afterwards. 

Mon  29th  Dined  at  K[onig]  V[on]  Eng[landt]  and  went  after  to  French 
play  —  saw  Rico  performed  by  Marshall  very  laughable,  came  away  after 

'  La  Gouvernante,  composed  by  Ferdinando  Giuseppe  Bertoni. 

2  Le  Prisonnier,  composed  by  Pierre  Antoine  Domenique  della  Maria,  first  performed  in  1798. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  39 

first  piece  was  over,  went  to  Patriotic  Coffee  house  &  met  there  Mess*"^  Brush 
Sen  &  Smith  —  played  Billds  [Billiards]  with  the  latter  —  home  early. 

Tues  30*^  Breakfasted  with  the  Brushes  and  called  on  Pitcairn  after- 
wards —  read  the  Eng[lish]  papers  —  M""  Proud.  'Change  —  Dined  at  K[Onig] 
V[on]  Eng*^  and  had  a  drinking  Siege  of  it  —  Supp'd  at  the  new  Hotel  and 
came  off  late. 

Wednes  3P*  Walk  upon  the  Jungfersteeg  with  the  Brushes  &  Flannigin 
—  Dined  at  Pitcairns  with  Mess"  A  Lameth  —  C.  Noailles  —  Robinson  & 
Flannigin.    Heard  a  deal  of  interesting  conversation,  but  remember  little. 

Thursday  P'  [November]  Fast  day  in  Hamburg  —  This  day  a  year  I  left 
this  place  for  Berlin  —  Weather  very  delightful  &  many  people  taking  advan- 
tage of  it.  Gates  of  the  town  &  Coffee  houses  shut.  Walked  upon  the  Jung- 
fernsteg  till  dinner  time  at  the  K[6nig]  V[On]  E[nglandt]  Company  small,  but 
chiefly  of  one  sett  —  Champagne  sat  them  all  agog  —  Afternoon  &  even^ 
with  B[rush]  Jun""  at  several  places. 

Frid  2  Dined  with  Pitcairn  —  Ev^  French  play  —  Ambroise  ^ —  after- 
wards with  Gorman[,]  Pitcairn  &  a  M""  Dawson  at  the  Patriotic.^  Billds 
[Billiards] — 

Satur  3  Running  about  all  the  morning  —  Dined  at  K[6nig]  V[on] 
Eng[landt]  —  and  remainder  of  day  &  ev^  with  Brush's. 

Sund  4  Called  on  M""  George  Smith  —  been  gone  a  little  time.  Took 
Pitcairn's  horse  &  got  out  of  the  gate  at  11  —  Fine  day  —  reached  M""  G 
Smiths  at  12,  small  Music  party  of  which  M''  Viotti  ^  was  the  chief  performer. 
Signior  &  Signiora  Righini  ^  the  second  —  the  last  sung  very  well  —  Con- 
siderable company  —  returned  to  town  and  spent  the  even^  at  Pitcairns  — 
Mess""^  Brush  &  Fowler. 

Mond  5  Day  fixed  for  departure,  but  put  off  till  Wednesday  —  Dined 
at  M""  J.  Brush  room  with  Mess"  Waters  of  Cork  —  Flannigin,  Berns  & 
Pitcairn  —  stayed  the  ev^. 

Tuesd  6  From  Change  went  with  M''  Riemer  &  dined  at  Caffe  Chinois 
with  a  number  of  Englishmen  —  Rhodes  &  Yates  —  Spent  Ev^  at  B  Coffee- 
house with  the  Brushe's. 

Wednes  7  Gave  an  introductory  letter  to  M*"  Waters  going  to  Berlin  — 
Dined  at  Girrards  with  M""  Dawson  and  went  to  see  Le  vieiix  Celihataire  at 
the  fr[ench]  play.^ 

Thursd  8  At  Pitcairns  in  the  morning  on  change  invited  to  dine  at  young 
J  Parish,  with  Pitcairn  &  the  Brushes  M.  La  Borde  —  Ev^  [Evening]  old  P 


^  The  same  piece  he  had  heard  before. 

^  Coffee-house. 

^  Jean  Baptiste  Viotti,  the  father  of  the  modern  school  of  violin-playing,  b.  1753;  d.  1824.  After  a 
successful  career  in  London,  where  he  became  leader  at  the  King's  Theatre,  he  was  forced  to  leave  England 
in  1798,  on  account  of  suspicion  that  he  was  encouraging  hostile  schemes  against  the  French  Directory.  He 
went  to   Schonfeldz,   a  village  near   Hamburg. 

■•  Vincenzo  Righini,  b.  at  Bologna  in  1756;  d.  there  in  1812.  He  came  to  Berlin  from  JNIainz  in  1793, 
as  successor  to  Alessandri,  conductor  at  the  Italian  opera.  His  wife  was  Henriette  Kneisel,  born  at  Stettin  in 
1767;  d.  at  Berlin  in  1801.  They  were  married  in  1793.  She  was  "a  charming  blonde,  and  according  to 
Gerber,  a  singer  of  great  expression."  —  Grove's  Diet,  of  Music,  IV:   101. 

^  This  play  was  written  by  Jean  Frangois  Collin  d'Harleville.  It  was  adapted  in  German  by  Ludwig 
Ferdinand  Huber  as  "Der  alte  Junggeselle"  (Leipzig,  1797). 


40  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

[Parish?]  came  in  with  news  —  Whist  at  Pitc:  [Pitcairn's]  Lameth  there  — 
he  had  dined  out  &  was  very  talkative  —  plausible  but  not  solid. 

Frid  9  Writing  all  the  forenoon;  dined  at  Konig  v.  Eng[landt]  with 
B[rush]  Jun""  and  passed  the  ev^  with  him. 

Satur  10  Bought  a  very  fine  German  Flute.  Dined  at  Pitcairns  on  Salt 
Fish  —  Capt"  Edwards  &  M""  Robinson  —  Ev^  with  S  Brush. 

Sund  11  At  my  lodgings  all  the  forenoon  —  dined  at  the  Chineese 
Coffee  house,  with  Mess"  Rocquette  &  Matthys  —  Ev^  with  Mess""'  Brush. 

Mond  12  Dined  again  at  Chineese  in  a  company  of  8  persons  —  Ev^  M"" 
Brush  Jun"" 

Tues  13  Met  Capt"  Trevet  upon  Change  —  just  in  from  Boston;  very 
favorable  accounts.  Dined  at  K[6nig]  V[on]  Eng[landt]  after  dinner  B.  Coffee- 
house and  after  a  supper  at  C[hinese]  C[offee  house]  with  Faving.^  Flannigin 
got  unruly  &  quarrelsome  —  home  late. 

Wed  14  M""  Fowler  called  on  me  before  I  was  up  to  say  the  wind  was 
fair  —  took  breakfast  called  on  F[lannigin]  and  went  to  the  water  for  a  boat, 
took  leave  of  the  Brushes  —  Flannigin  &  Amadon  Paid  of  f  at  the  Obergesell- 
schaft  sent  off  my  baggage  &  called  to  take  leave  of  Pitcairn  —  He  accom- 
panied me  to  Lilburns  where  took  a  cut  with  Capt  Palmer  &  left  in  a  boat  for 
Gluckstadt  at  2 —  Got  down  after  rather  an  uncomfortable  passage  &  on 
board  the  Ship  Alexander  Hamilton  at  2  in  the  morning  of 

Thurs  15  Captain  got  on  board  at  9  and  put  the  Ship  under  weigh  — 
went  down  a  few  miles  &  then  were  obliged  to  come  to  Anchor  —  Ev^  a  vessel, 
the  Harriet  Capt"  Martin  from  Baltimore  came  along  side  and  we  sent  out 
jolly  boat  a  board  to  ask  for  news  —  the  Capt  &  a  passenger  came  &  passed 
the  ev^  with  us  —   Gave  us  a  Baltimore  paper  of  28  Sepf —  38  days  passage. 

Frid  16  Good  wind  and  we  got  under  weigh  at  8  from  Biish  where  we 
lay  &  went  down  to  Cuxhaven  where  we  came  to  anchor  at  12  on  account  of 
the  wind  being  unfavorable  to  go  north  ab^  [about]  Spoke  a  vessel  10  weeks 
from  New  York,  loaded  with  Cotton  &''^  Sent  the  boat  a  shore  with  the  mate 
to  get  some  articles  at  Cuxhaven. 

Satur  17  Wind  quite  a  head  —  after  dinner  the  Capt*"  &  self  went  on 
shore  at  Cuxhaven  &  purchased  several  necessary  articles  —  two  Turkeys 
&''^  and  returned  just  at  dusk  on  board. 

Sund  18  Stormy  day  —  wind  to  the  westward  —  read  most  of  the  day 
—  predicted  a  fair  wind,  which  actually  set  in  about  8  at  night  —  prepared  to 
take  benefit  of  it  early  in  morn^ 

Mond  19  The  people  were  stiring  by  5  and  got  the  Ship  under  weigh  by 
7  in  the  morn^  with  a  fine  wind  from  the  Eastward  —  Got  up  and  wrote  to 
my  Brother  &  Sister  &  to  Pitcairn  which  sent  by  the  Pilot  who  left  us  at  11 
o'clock —  Passed  several  vessels  which  sailed  before  us  —  and  about  12 
were  off  Heiligoland,  whence  our  voyage  begun  as  of  the  20*^  —  Passed  a 
vessel,  said  English  which  had  got  upon  a  shoal  and  was  surrounded  by  Blank- 


Perhaps   written   erroneously   for   Flannigin. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  41 

aneese  boats  —  We  left  Heil°land  on  our  left  and  all  the  vessels  that  come  out 
very  soon  were  out  of  sight  as  we  sailed  much  superior  to  any  of  them  —  Had 
fine  breeze  all  day  &  felt  ourselves  quite  happy. 

Tues  20  Wind  strong  in  the  night  —  vessel  made  1 1  knots  for  four  hours 
together.  At  12  o'Clock  we  had  252  miles  on  the  log  book  in  the  last 
24  hours.  Weather  very  fine  but  sharp  air  —  snowed  some  part  of  the 
day  —  wind  tolerably  fair  —  Ev^  Cards  —  Appetite  rather  slim  to  day  — 
stomach  squeamish;  took  a  nap  after  dinner  &  recovered. 

Wednes  21  Calm  weather  &  not  so  cold  as  yesterday  —  very  slight 
wind  —  a  fresh  breeze  came  on  in  the  evening. 

Thurs  22*^  Good  wind,  a  sail  in  sight  supposed  a  lugger  —  made  more 
sail  and  lost  sight  of  her  in  about  2  hours  —  At  night  a  very  fresh  breeze  — 
Capt  went  on  deck  &  cried  out  directly  A  light !  Ho !  All  hands  up  on  deck  — 
Took  in  sail  and  tried  hard  to  weather  the  light,  which  proved  to  be  on  one 
of  the  Orkney  Islands  —  With  day  light  we  could  have  gone  directly  through 
these  Islands,  but  as  it  was  nine  at  night  the  Capt"  made  for  the  passage  between 
the  Orkney  &  Shetland  Isles  —    Stood  off  all  night  &  on 

Friday  23  Discovered  two  of  the  Shetland  Islands  —  Fair  &  Foul,  the 
latter  of  which  at  12  oClock  was  by  observation  54  miles  off  —  Fair  wind 
and  fine  weather  though  somewhat  cold  &  snowy. 

Saturd  24  Got  through  the  passage  very  fortunately  —  wind  early  a 
head  and  during  the  whole  day  boisterous  almost  tempestuous  weather  —  No 
sickness  — 

Sunday  25     Contrary  wind  all  day  and  towards  night  very  fresh. 

Mond  26  Bad  wind  —  one  of  our  6  shilling  sterling  Turkey's  got  over 
board  —  the  Mate  &  Will  the  apprentice  let  down  Jolly  boat  &  went  for  it  ■ — 
recoverd  her. 

Tues  27  Strong  wind  &  nearly  a  head  all  day.  Some  of  our  crew  sick 
— M*"  F[lannigin]S  servl 

Wed  28  Head  wind  again  —  since  we  left  the  Orkney's  we  have  not 
had  an  hour  of  fair  wind  —  Reading  good  part  of  the  day;  Faublas  is  some- 
what bewitching. 

Thurs  29  The  same  old  story  of  bad  wind  &  a  head  —  Capf"  complains 
much  of  his  Crew  —  scarcely  an  abled  bodied  seaman  on  board  —  the 
Mate  excepted. 

Frid  30  Constant  gales;  no  possibility  of  keeping  ones  feet  —  obliged 
to  eat  on  the  floor. 

Saturd  1  December  Passed  a  very  uncomfortable  night  —  not  a  wink 
of  sleep  till  morn^ — up  late,  wind  continues  in  the  same  dismal  quarter  — 
Capf  anxious.  At  9  in  the  evening  the  wind  shifted  in  our  favour,  and 
continued  through  the  night,  but  came  round  early  in  the  morn^  of 

Sund  2  and  begun  to  blow  a  violent  gale  through  the  whole  day.  Hard 
labour  for  the  sailors  —  most  all  the  sails  handed  —  Sea  mountains  high  & 
often  some  of  it  a  board  —    Capt  very  anxious  for  fear  of  being  blown  upon 


42  THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 

the  Irish  Coast  —  Put  Ship  about  two  or  three  times  in  the  course  of  the  day. 
Everything  giving  way  in  the  Cabin  and  no  comfort  in  eating.  For  myself, 
I  was  not  terrified  though  it  was  the  first  Gale  I  had  every  experienced,  M*" 
F[lannigin]  was  gloomy  &  tried  hard  to  make  me  so,  but  I  thought  it  would  be 
time  when  we  were  on  the  rocks  to  look  dismal.  The  Gale  abated  with  the 
setting  Sun  &  we  had  a  much  better  night  than  was  expected. 

Mon  3  Fine  wind  &  weather  —  Spent  all  day  on  Deck  &  took  care  of 
the  surviving  fowls.  13  of  our  stock  perished  in  the  gale  of  yesterday  —  we 
must  be  soon  reduced  to  salt  provisions  took  exercise  &  dined  well. 

Tues  4     Tolerable  pleasant  day    wind  not  over  hard  —  but  contrary. 

Wed  5     By  log  book  wind  E  B  S,  E  N  E.  N  E.  &  North. 

Thurs  6'^     Heavy  gales  from  N  B  W    W  N  W.  West  &  S  W. 

Frid  7'^     Wind  S  W  B  W.  S  W.  W  S  W.  West  —  N  W  B  W.^ 

Sat  S^^  Head  wind  all  day  —  towards  night  very  heavy  —  Salt  Fish 
dinner  always  bring  on  a  gale  of  wind  says  the  Capt. 

Sund  9'^  The  Slings  of  the  main  yard  gave  way  last  night,  an  Accident, 
which  might  have  been  fatal  to  some  of  the  Crew  had  it  happened  by  day  — 
Wind  to  day  S.W.  &  W.S.W. 

Mon  10*^  Passed  some  hours  very  much  in  pain  with  the  tooth  ach  — 
last  night,     relieved  myself  towards  morning  —  Wind  E.N.E. 

Tuesd  1 V^     Fine  wind  —  the  Ship  goes  from  9  to  11  knots  an  hour. 

Wed  12  —  Thurs  13.  Frid  14.  Wind  continued  favorable  &  we  made 
about  600  miles  in  the  course  of  it. 

Satur  15  Head  wind  —  Capt"  thought  we  were  on  the  outward  bank  of 
Newfoundland  —  tried  for  soundings,  but  did  not  find  them  —  Salt  fish. 

Sun  16  Made  little  progress  today  wind  W  b  S.  W  N  W  &'=^  but  by  our 
sea  journal  we  had  a  run  of  60  or  70  knots  from  1  to  10  oClock  at  night. 

Mon  17     Head  wind —    Tues  18  Same. 

Wed  19     Same —    Thurs  20     Same. 

Frid  21  We  are  upon  the  Southernmost  extremity  of  the  Banks  of  New- 
foundland —  Wind  variable  from  N.W.  to  N.  lay  our  course  part  of  the 
time.  About  4  }^  oClock  a  sail  hove  in  sight  bearing  down  towards  us. 
Capt  determined  to  speak  her  —  Loaded  one  of  the  labord  guns  —  I  charged 
5  Pistols  being  all  the  effective  small  arms  we  have  on  board  —  Got  out  my 
Tin  case  of  papers  &''^  in  }i  of  an  hour  from  the  time  of  discovery,  the  vessel 
was  within  hailing  distance  &  we  found  her  to  be  the  Ship  Heyram  Capt 
Whitwell,  14  days  from  Boston  bound  to  Liverpool  —  His  observation  was  in 
50-odd  E[nglish]  L[eagues].  ours  in  50.  30. 

Satur  22     Wind  N  &  N  b  W.    pretty  strong. 


1  While  Thomas  B.  Adams  was  at  sea  and  found  this  brief  entry  of  winds  as  his  only  record  of  interest, 
his  brother  John  Quincy  Adams  recorded  in  his  diary  that  he  had  called  upon  the  Prussian  minister  of  state, 
Count  von  Haugwitz,  by  appointment,  and  adds:  "He  told  me  he  had  a  double  regret  in  having  been  obliged  to 
delay  so  long  an  answer  to  my  application  for  permission  to  export  arms;  and  at  last  the  answer  is  not 
such  as  he  could  wish.  The  permission  cannot  be  granted,  because  the  King's  own  troops  will  want  all  that 
the  manufacture   can   produce   for  a   year   to   come." — Memoirs,   I:   223. 


BERLIN  AND  THE  PRUSSIAN  COURT  IN  1798  43 

Sund  23  Forenoon  very  calm,  after  dinner  a  clever  breeze  sprung  up 
from  the  Southw^ard  &  continued  till  10  o'Clock  at  night.  Lay  our  course 
till  2  on 

Monday  24  Wind  a  head  &  very  strong  from  the  Southward  &  West*^ 
made  however  some  progress. 

Tuesd  25  Christmas  day  —  One  of  the  heaviest  gales  of  wind  from  the 
N  E  b  N  that  we  have  had  since  we  are  out.  A  tremendous  Sea  running  &  the 
Ship  steering  right  before  the  wind  for  fear  of  loosing  her  masts  if  we  lay  our 
course.  The  Sailors  stole  some  apples  from  the  Caboose  last  night  &  the  Capt" 
to  punish  them  refused  their  allowance  of  meat  &  bread  for  Christmas,  but  the 
Sailors  had  the  laugh  upon  him  when  it  turned  out  that  none  of  us  could  have 
any  dinner  cooked  on  ace*  of  the  Sea  that  was  runing  —  About  2  o'Clock 
the  watch  on  deck  discovered  the  wreck  of  a  large  vessel  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance from  us  —  could  distinguish  nothing  in  particular.  Towards  night  the 
gale  abated  &  the  Sea  fell,  so  that  we  got  somewhat  to  eat. 

Finished  the  25*^  Decem: 

1798 


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i^.-.       ■     - 

REG.  ClR.Jlif<l7  77 

MAR  2  8  1979 

REC.  Gift    MAR  2  8 

1G79 

FORM  NO.  DD  6, 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA,  BERKELEY 
BERKELEY,  CA  94720 


U   C   BERKELEY  LIBRAI 


Gaylord  Bros. 

Makers 

Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

PAT.  JAN.  21,  1908 


CDSlDtmS! 


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